Big Brake Kits

[MountainBikeMike]

Just got a quote from GSL:

DBA T2 Rotors EACH: $165 front, $135 rear- Disc Brakes Australia | T2 slot - Disc Brakes Australia
Remsa brake pads PAIR: $115 front, $90 rear
Penrite race fluid 500ml: $15, we need roughly 500ml per end
$25 freight down to Melbourne

Totals were about $490 front, over $800 for the full set F+R

I was advised braided lines are just not effective unless raced, which for me is no, and that people think braided are so amazing because they change the oil at the same time and its the oil giving the much better feel...

So I think I'll go with those rotors. I'll start with the front and see how that goes, but probably stay with those. I'll only change the rear if I have to anyway later... However the pads I havn't heard of. GSL advised me they are some of the best and rated above 650 degrees. Does anyone have experience or reviews for these 'Remsa' pads?

Cheers!

[seangti]

So I think I'll go with those rotors. I'll start with the front and see how that goes, but probably stay with those. I'll only change the rear if I have to anyway later... However the pads I havn't heard of. GSL advised me they are some of the best and rated above 650 degrees. Does anyone have experience or reviews for these 'Remsa' pads?

Cheers!

I'm on my second set of remsa's, many of the polo guys are running them (perhaps cos that's the main place I frequent). They are a very good pad, and a very good price. They are a higher temp pad to OEM, so coming from a stock pad you may notice a lack of initial bite when you first touch the brakes of the morning, but that's a minimal sacrifice, and they hold up well under high temp applications. Regarding brake dust, from recollection that are marginally better than OEM, though others have had better results saying much less brake dust.

For me, both sets of pads have had extensive track use once bed in so I think I'm using them beyond their design tolerances, a corner a Qld raceway on back straight has me going from ~175kmh to 60kmh at the hairpin apex within 120m, so it's highly committed braking. Other tracks don't require the same level of retarding so the brakes are fine, e.g. lakeside. In saying that, they are fine for track days if not punching sustained highly committed laps, they'll with stand it, but brake feel over time deteriorates and wrecks your rotors. They haven't failed me and rotor wear is fine.

[nat225]

I'm on my second set of remsa's, many of the polo guys are running them (perhaps cos that's the main place I frequent). They are a very good pad, and a very good price. They are a higher temp pad to OEM, so coming from a stock pad you may notice a lack of initial bite when you first touch the brakes of the morning, but that's a minimal sacrifice, and they hold up well under high temp applications. Regarding brake dust, from recollection that are marginally better than OEM, though others have had better results saying much less brake dust.

For me, both sets of pads have had extensive track use once bed in so I think I'm using them beyond their design tolerances, a corner a Qld raceway on back straight has me going from ~175kmh to 60kmh at the hairpin apex within 120m, so it's highly committed braking. Other tracks don't require the same level of retarding so the brakes are fine, e.g. lakeside. In saying that, they are fine for track days if not punching sustained highly committed laps, they'll with stand it, but brake feel over time deteriorates and wrecks your rotors. They haven't failed me and rotor wear is fine.

+1

also, Jason Statham (Machine) in his white Golf R uses Remsa pads.

[MountainBikeMike]

I'm on my second set of remsa's, many of the polo guys are running them (perhaps cos that's the main place I frequent). They are a very good pad, and a very good price. They are a higher temp pad to OEM, so coming from a stock pad you may notice a lack of initial bite when you first touch the brakes of the morning, but that's a minimal sacrifice, and they hold up well under high temp applications. Regarding brake dust, from recollection that are marginally better than OEM, though others have had better results saying much less brake dust.

For me, both sets of pads have had extensive track use once bed in so I think I'm using them beyond their design tolerances, a corner a Qld raceway on back straight has me going from ~175kmh to 60kmh at the hairpin apex within 120m, so it's highly committed braking. Other tracks don't require the same level of retarding so the brakes are fine, e.g. lakeside. In saying that, they are fine for track days if not punching sustained highly committed laps, they'll with stand it, but brake feel over time deteriorates and wrecks your rotors. They haven't failed me and rotor wear is fine.

Awesome, sounds good enough for me. Cheers for the info.

I don't do track as I never have, but then again I've never had a car this quick If anything, I might track it once or twice a year. As said previously my main concern is stopping distance for emergencies, and reduced brake fade for mountain passes. Good to know it should be right for both. So your saying that the initial bite from cold is slightly less than OEM? Because this is more than half my driving.. well my trips to work are in traffic for about 25k. How many brakes from 60-0 generally get the system warmed?

[Joe7777]

Great choices mate. Lucas also uses Remsa pads, and you may be able to find a review at here.
Lucas' Golf R

He likes to try different set up and seem all come up very well. The remsa pads only come with 1 series, so no much choice whether it is street oriented or track oriented, but GSL do strongly recommend it given it is good value for money too. Other pads like EBC and Ferodo are way too expensive for what they are according to them, as they are more racing driven I suppose. But I am still quite interested to see how Ferodo will work in practice seems DBA rotors recommend them. DS2500 perhaps is too over kill for daily driving? I also looked at some of the Hawk pads (eg. HPS or ceramic). Remsa pads have high carbon contents which is pretty good too. This is all I really know about the brake pads as a newbie

[Joe7777]

Here is Lucas DIY thread for Remsa pads in case you found useful. (Sorry Lucas to use your thread)

DIY - changing/upgrading the brake pads on Golf R

[Martin]

I run Ferodo DS2500 on my car, they are a favorite choice for me, they are more but not overly expensive
They are perfectly fine on street and great on the track - your rotors will wear somewhat quicker than normal

Another very cost effective option is QFM pads - GSL sell them
HPX series for high performance or A1RM for frequent/hard track work
These work great and are one of the cheapest performance pad you can get

Remsa are a good option for sure

Don't get hung up or caught out looking for a high performance pad that does not make much dust and does not wear the rotors heavily - it's a total myth - more braking performance from the same rotor means more brake dust and more rotor wear, it's a simple as that
(Using low friction pads with bigger calipers may be the exception but it won't have that initial bite and not many of use would spend money for that configuration)

I got a set of street ceramic pads that were meant to be low dust and ok for occasional track usage
They were the opposite on both counts - very high dust and only handled 3 laps on the track

Pads that need warming up will normally be fine by the time your water temperature reaches normal
Just driving along your rotors will be like 36~40 degrees

I would not buy high end DBA rotors - they are well known to crack
Don't get drilled rotors - cracks start at the drilling holes - get plain or slotted rotors

[Joe7777]

Thanks Martin, appreciate the info, it is certainly very helpful to know your user experiences! I am looking to get a DBA rotors T3 4000 series slotted for the front, and T2 street series slotted for the rear to match up the slotted pattern, which looks to be an OK option. But just need to source some good pads to go with them. I just want to make sure the comfort and noise is a the bearable level for daily drive, since I won't track it often...

I run Ferodo DS2500 on my car, they are a favorite choice for me, they are more but not overly expensive
They are perfectly fine on street and great on the track - your rotors will wear somewhat quicker than normal

Another very cost effective option is QFM pads - GSL sell them
HPX series for high performance or A1RM for frequent/hard track work
These work great and are one of the cheapest performance pad you can get

Remsa are a good option for sure

Don't get hung up or caught out looking for a high performance pad that does not make much dust and does not wear the rotors heavily - it's a total myth - more braking performance from the same rotor means more brake dust and more rotor wear, it's a simple as that
(Using low friction pads with bigger calipers may be the exception but it won't have that initial bite and not many of use would spend money for that configuration)

I got a set of street ceramic pads that were meant to be low dust and ok for occasional track usage
They were the opposite on both counts - very high dust and only handled 3 laps on the track

Pads that need warming up will normally be fine by the time your water temperature reaches normal
Just driving along your rotors will be like 36~40 degrees

I would not buy high end DBA rotors - they are well known to crack
Don't get drilled rotors - cracks start at the drilling holes - get plain or slotted rotors

[Martin]

So the T2 rotors are well priced from memory
The T3/4000 are double the cost of stock rotors but still not expensive in outright terms

The DS2500 pad is better for demanding drivers who want a lot of bite and feel and are less worried about rotor life
They are normally completely silent
After a lot of round town work you may get a little sqealing which can be cleared via an enthusiastic braking exercise
The noise problem may get worse as the rotors become groved - hence higher maintenance (skimming the rotors)

It's more common for the metalic racing pads to make noise
You should be pretty safe with all the other options
Bendix ultimate would be another good choice - good performance and no noise

At the end of the day you'll have to try a set and see how it goes,
very easy to change them out if you don't like them

[seangti]

So your saying that the initial bite from cold is slightly less than OEM? Because this is more than half my driving.. well my trips to work are in traffic for about 25k. How many brakes from 60-0 generally get the system warmed?

Yup, as said, my car is tracked every month so pad bite when cold is average so others may have a more positive opinion. By average, i wouldn't punch it in to the first corner, but 2-3 applications and it's fine. I'd expect an OEM pad would be sufficient for some mountain passes, so these may not sit well for your daily needs. Everything is a compromise. I had tracked my car from factory spec, pads and all which is why I'd think an OEM pad should suffice, unless the quality of components on skoda is markedly less. I've ran formula feroda DS2500 and 2000's, great pads but exxy. 2000's are similar to these remsa's IMO.

[kaanage]

Another very cost effective option is QFM pads - GSL sell them
HPX series for high performance or A1RM for frequent/hard track work
These work great and are one of the cheapest performance pad you can get

I run the A1RMs on road between track days and they work alright on the road even from cold, although I don't drive aggressively in traffic. The big thing is to bed them in properly else they squeal mightily.
According to Greg at GSL Rallysport, the HPX pads are on par with the Remsa ones but priced a bit higher which is why he recommends the Remsa pads for normal, aggressive road use.

The DBA slotted rotors make a funny whirring sound when you brake hard.

[Martin]

All metalic pads need to be bed in - it's essential

When swapping from ceramic to metalic or back it's best to have the discs machined
This gives a good/flat surface for bedding in but also removes the previous pad material

[kaanage]

In another thread, someone linked to an article which used hard braking with cold brakes (so no pad material gets deposited on to the rotor) with pads with a high metal content to 'machine' off existing pad material when swapping pad types.

It makes a lot of sense when you think about it.