Mk5 2.0 TDI not starting - Oil pressure warning lamp - what to do?

[Lams]

I wouldn't call it cold either, but the 2 cars that gave me problems only played up first thing in the morning in winter (Brissy winter I might add)
one of them we never found the problem, it would crank and crank and not fire. We can push start it, we never tried jump starting because we never suspected the battery (and we live on a hill so just get it rolling and away you go)
The other one, the ECU wouldn't wake up when it's cold - the usual dash lights aren't there when we switch on ignition. DSG indicator on the dash would flash. The problem is still there but the car lives in a garage now and the garage seems to be warm enough to keep it going. Jump starting didn't work on this car
While chasing the faults on both cars, we discovered many things that could cause starting issues - dirty fuel filter, dying battery, but I'm afraid I can't put my finger on anything definite here. Perhaps the oil has the wrong viscosity... Good luck!

[RigoX]

Hi Lams, temps went up here the past few days - but no luck yet.

[RigoX]

Got someone over this weekend to plug in the VAG-COM, but no luck!
No error codes whatsoever.

Also filled up oil and diesel on Friday to exclude some more silly options.
No idea really what it could be. Just came across a thread on this forum (MKV Coil Pack Recall?) talking about a VW recall on coil packs for MK5. Would that include my model?

BTW, does anyone have a link to a great DIY resource with guides and pictures? Maybe I could rule some more options.

[WA Euro]

Hi again, sorry to hear that you are still having issues

The coil pack recall is for petrol models only

Because the computer is not logging a fault, then the computer doesn't think that there is a problem.

My next suggestion is to disconnect the negative lead of the battery for about 30 mins. this will let the computers power down and reset. Then reconnect the battery and use a jump pack or leads to give an extra boost to the power. (sometimes a battery can have enough volts but not enough amps - and vice versa - so the computer may not activate some systems).
When you turn the ignition on, there will be more fault lights (steering wheel, maybe ABS/ESP also) these will go away once the vehicle is driven)
When you try to start the car, keep your foot flat to the floor on the throttle and crank in a long burst rather than short ones - EVEN IF the "STOP" light starts shouting at you.
If you start to smell burning electrics then leave the starter to cool down for 10 mins but it takes a while for this to happen.

If this doesn't work then time to visit the dealer i reck'n

hope this helps!?

[Transporter]

Yours is the TDI, no coils then.
Since you didn't get any codes, I would assume that you check the fuel supply first. Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from the fuel filter and get some clear PVC tubing (hose) 2x 100mm will do, you will need some metal tubing to insert them in the PVC tubings and then in the hoses which connects to the filter. Reconnect the hoses with the clear tubing attached and while cranking, check if there are no bubbles, if there is a lot of bubbles, you've got the air leak somewhere in the fuel system.



Or maybe, it's the time to call mechanic, see some independent VW specialist in the forum. Like Camden GTI, they're good and helpful.

Edit:
Do not disconnect the battery and don't put your foot on the accelerator (that can confuse the ECU in the car). But make sure that the battery is good as WA 79 cabby suggest, if you connecting extra battery with the leads make sure that the leads are good quality, so you don't melt them possibly catch on fire.

Also you could look in here Diesel fuel filter How to replace

[parso_rex]

Scanned the car yesterday in between a coffee and home duties and found nothing but it would seem like the fuel pump (or perhaps its relay,filter) is the culprit simply because there is not much else that it could be. A quick google search of MkV GT's with fuel pump issues bring up a stack of hits so that would be the logical thing to look at. Its dead, no kick at all, no fuel for whatever reason
It was pretty dark and I had no tools with me at the time so sadly there was no way to look at fuel supply. I could log fuel usage but this is probably only looking at duty cycle so it still appears to work. Battery is fine for the moment.

[RigoX]

Finally some updates: Car is starting again. Jump started it with an external charger to get the engine going.
Looks like it was indeed to weak (while somehow still holding plenty charge). Car starting without problems for now.
But looks like I'll have to replace the battery.

I attached a picture of the battery.
Is replacing the battery a DIY job? If so, where and what to buy as a good replacement?
What specifications to look for?
BTW, based on the picture - is this still the OEM battery?

For warranty issues (not just for the battery itself), is it better to get it professionally replaced?

Thanks again for all your help!

[Transporter]

Yes, that's the OEM battery. I saw suitable battery at the Battery World for $260. Just make sure that the AH rating and CCA are the same or greater. You can replace the battery anywhere as long as it is done correctly you cannot lose your warranty. I would still ring to the dealer and get a quote, who knows you may be surprised they 're quite competetive on some spares.

[WA Euro]

RAC supply and install a battery for a charge of $20 on top of the battery or free if you are a member. Batteryworld. Anyone can supply a battery that will do the job, there's not much special about it. The more you pay, the better the battery. Ask about the warranty on it. The best batteries come with 36 month warranty.