Wreck to Race.

[Peter Jones]

Thats a serious oil light, pete! good stuff.

Hehehe. It's a busted Mk1 clock and a LED downlight globe



I could have put a red 50w incandecent in there but I figured I might not be able to see the track past it.

Those globes come in other colours too. I could make me a disco dash.

Pete

[Preen59]

I could have put a red 50w incandecent in there but I figured I might not be able to see the track past it.

Those globes come in other colours too. I could make me a disco dash.

Pete

Hahaha, quality. You certainly come up with some good ideas. I like your enginuity (pretty sure that's spelled incorrectly..).

You know what they say.. Necessity is the mother of invention.

[Peter Jones]

Today's race prep photos.

Here's a few shots from prepping the car today.

Interior before





After



Finally got hold of a driver's side belt buckle to keep the lap sash belt functional (and therefore legal) for road use.



Belts all tucked away for the drive to Sandown tomorrow.



Going to try some new oil. I had just done a change but there was still a lot of water in there from the head episode.



So much for VHT heat proof paint.




I found an eye bolt that conveniently winds into the tow bar instead of the tongue. The factory tow point needs welding to be usable.



This is a bugger, I overtightened the adjustable cam pulley and stuffed it up. I'm pretty careful with these things, no torque was specified. I was using a short allen key with no additional leverage. doh!

I'll order in a stock pulley and get it machined to replace the bit I broke - perhaps with a little more material left around the bolt holes.



I was intending to run it at 0 degrees anyway. I've put a stock pulley or there ftm.

Pete

[Preen59]

This is a bugger, I overtightened the adjustable cam pulley and stuffed it up. I'm pretty careful with these things, no torque was specified. I was using a short allen key with no additional leverage. doh!

I'll order in a stock pulley and get it machined to replace the bit I broke - perhaps with a little more material left around the bolt holes.



I was intending to run it at 0 degrees anyway. I've put a stock pulley or there ftm.

Pete

That's a bugger

Send it up and i'll do it for you if you don't know any good people.

You mounted your seatbelt buckle on the side the same way i did with my custom seats... Great minds think alike huh?

[Peter Jones]

That's a bugger

Send it up and i'll do it for you if you don't know any good people.

You mounted your seatbelt buckle on the side the same way i did with my custom seats... Great minds think alike huh?

Cheers, I might just do that once I've got a new stock pulley in.

I had to have the seatbelt buckle in their as well as the harness because of the way the laws down here work.

Basically if the car came factory with retracting seatbelts then non-retracting seatbelts (ie Harnesses) are not legal for that car when it's used on the road.

So its fine to put harnesses into a 1965 Beetle just not a '79 Golf !

I've got wave washers on the buckle so I can fold it backwards when the harness is in use.

You can see where it's attached in this shot. It's an early seatbase so it didn't have the factory bracket inside the runner.

[Preen59]

Wave washers.. Now there's something i didn't think of. Good idea. If only i was going to use those seats again...

[roccodingo]

This is a bugger, I overtightened the adjustable cam pulley and stuffed it up. I'm pretty careful with these things, no torque was specified. I was using a short allen key with no additional leverage. doh!

I'll order in a stock pulley and get it machined to replace the bit I broke - perhaps with a little more material left around the bolt holes.



I was intending to run it at 0 degrees anyway. I've put a stock pulley or there ftm.

Pete

VW engine sprockets are all sintered metal, basically crap material Pete, Prob better off long term using a HARD anodised Alloy one ( not colour anodised, hard anodised is a gunmetal grey colour ).

[Preen59]

VW engine sprockets are all sintered metal, basically crap material Pete, Prob better off long term using a HARD anodised Alloy one ( not colour anodised, hard anodised is a gunmetal grey colour ).

The quality of them isn't too bad in my opinion. They are soft, but not weak. Hard annodising is only case hardening process. Yes you can "harden" aluminium alloys, but in most cases companies use T5 or 6 anyway, so it won't make any difference and they won't be any stronger for this application in my opinion.

[roccodingo]

The quality of them isn't too bad in my opinion. They are soft, but not weak. Hard annodising is only case hardening process. Yes you can "harden" aluminium alloys, but in most cases companies use T5 or 6 anyway, so it won't make any difference and they won't be any stronger for this application in my opinion.

Prob is the sintered ones have low ductility, fine if your leaving them in an original unmodified state, however the material doesnt take to kindly to the stresses of drilling and tapping once the sintering process is completed..

[mikinoz]

Replace the fuel with a big orange light so if there is no oil presure it turns on and that means shut the baby down... Saves some money just incase things goes wrong...

U can get the presure thingo in the head

on this, my Imp has a static fuel pump that only pumps when there is oil pressure in the engine. Oil pressure switch down stream from the fuel pump electrics. If you have no oil, you won't go anywhere....

Surely to save an early rebuild.

[Peter Jones]

on this, my Imp has a static fuel pump that only pumps when there is oil pressure in the engine. Oil pressure switch down stream from the fuel pump electrics. If you have no oil, you won't go anywhere....

Surely to save an early rebuild.

That's fine for a carb'd car but would probably lead to difficult starting on a K-Jet.

If my car suddenly looses all oil presure it's probably time for a rebuild anyway.

I should label that lamp "REBUILD INDICATOR"

Pete

[Peter Jones]

Started stripping down a 2.0 2E bottom end to swap into the car today.

I just figured out how to do the serpentine belt, which I wrote about here http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...ad.php?t=19887

Today I also cleaned out the waterpump and added a colder thermostat (80°) and new o rings.

This is an interim arangement until I build something better next year. It should provide the torque that's been missing. It will be interesting to see a 2.0 with an 1800 KJet head on it go.

There's a few things to sort out along the way.

• Distributor needs a spacer made.
• All new gaskets and seals
• Serpentine belt setup
• block off plate over crankcase breather box. (will also mount WUR)
• RHS engine mount will need modification as alternator bracket will foul.
• Windage tray to fit.

I've also got a close ratio box on the way thanks to Golf Loon.

I'll do the engine mounts while its out, I've got a full set of urethane ones to go in (I like engine noise).

If I can figure out the clutch thing I'll do that too.

Watch this space!



Pete

[GoLfMan]

Watch this space!

ohhh im a watchin

nice work mate, i like ya style

[Jarred]

What? you didn't paint the block red?? Jodi mustnt've been happy about that!

Give us a holler if you need a hand, not that you probably would, but just in case

[Preen59]

Looking good as usual Pete.

More pics.