Wreck to Race.

[Water Boy]

Yeah thats the one prusure sender... The one that opens up when there is presure and if there is no presure it completes the circuit which then turns the light on...

Of course it will flick when u start the engine but then all should be gravy...

U dont want to see it pulling up the back straight at Sandown

[Preen59]

Yeah thats the one prusure sender... The one that opens up when there is presure and if there is no presure it completes the circuit which then turns the light on...

Normally closed type.

[Peter Jones]

Your belt pickup eye bolts are very nice, Pete. Very well thought out.

Q: Did you purchase that rear tower brace or make it? The welds are very neat on it. If it was a reasonable price, i'll buy one instead of making my own.

Also, your oil pressure and volt gauges are identical to the ones i've got for my car!

I had it made to mount the harness to. It cost $250 to have made and fitted. These are the guys that did the work http://www.browndavis.com.au/

There's more pics a few pages back http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...=13857&page=12

I could have made something up myself but this way it's all 100% legit and there's no way any scrutineer should have any issues with it. It even has a serial number on an ID plate which is traceable back to the engineers job records.

If I wanted a cage done I'd be using these guys, I seen quite a few rally cars now with their cages and their work is excellent.

Pete

[Peter Jones]

Normally closed type.

Yep , same as the the existing idiot switch for the oil pressure light, they make to earth on low (or no) pressure. I've got 'em here in all shapes and sizes and a few T pieces too. The pressure sender is in the head outlet and the temp sender is in the oil filter bracket (for the moment, it might be better off in the sump.)

I'll add a T piece to the cylinder head and add another idiot switch in there to run the great big warning light on the dash.

Pete

[Preen59]

I had it made to mount the harness to. It cost $250 to have made and fitted. These are the guys that did the work http://www.browndavis.com.au/

There's more pics a few pages back http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...=13857&page=12

I could have made something up myself but this way it's all 100% legit and there's no way any scrutineer should have any issues with it. It even has a serial number on an ID plate which is traceable back to the engineers job records.

If I wanted a cage done I'd be using these guys, I seen quite a few rally cars now with their cages and their work is excellent.

Pete

Cheap as chips. I'll be making a call to them i think. That's too cheap for me to jerk around and make one myself when i could be doing other work and making money.

Thanks again, Pete.

[Water Boy]

The great big warning light on the dash

The bigger that better

[Jarred]

Top looking bar. If (when) I finally hit the track, I'd probably go straight to these guys for a similar bar, or half cage. It really is a nice install and neat bit of kit.

Good to see it's running better and you're even netting a few more ponies even. hope you enjoyed all that wiring! ahahahha

[Peter Jones]

hope you enjoyed all that wiring! ahahahha

Wiring is my middle name! That's a little job.


Pete

[Preen59]

Wiring is my middle name! That's a little job.


Pete

I hate wiring. Mainly because i don't know how to do it well. Luckily i have mates in town that own an auto elec shop. So Nick and Tone always help me out.

[Peter Jones]

Managed to out a few miles on it. I've had a bit of a play with the cam timing. I think 0 degrees will suit the track and maybe 1-2 advanced for the street.

I made up the lamp and wired it up. Don't think I'll miss this!





Added an idiot switch to the head where I already had the pressure sender.



Since I replaced the fuel cap I've been getting a vacuum build up in the tank. The old cap wasn't sealing and must have been acting as a vent. I replaced it because it was leaking fuel when I tossed the car around the track.

For the last couple of days this has made starting the car difficult because the vacuum in the tank was draining the injection system. (I know the non return valves shoiuld stop this - they didn't!) If I opened the cap as soon as I parked, it would start OK. If I left it, it took ages to get fuel back through the system.

I tracked down the blockage in the tank breather today, hopefully this problem's sorted now. My car is originally a diesel so it doesn't have all the charcol cannister and vacuum tank breather system.

There's a solid plastic line that goes right across the car and does a loop over the exhaust and just dumps straight down in the centre of the car.

At some time in the cars life the hose had come into contact with the exhaust and melted it. I shortened it and got it right away from the exhaust. I've tested it out and it seems to be clear now.

I've just about given up the search for power , I think I've simply found all this motor has to offer. It's time to put some thought into my 2.0l project.


Pete

[thestu]

thats sweeeet! nice lamp! should have perfect shifts all the time now

[GoLfMan]

awesome stuff Pete

yeh get into that 2L, as you said its about all your going to get without spending big bikkies on the bottom and top ends of the 1.8

[Peter Jones]

thats sweeeet! nice lamp! should have perfect shifts all the time now

The light's wired to show loss of oil presssure.

I usually like to shift before then.

Pete

[thestu]

The light's wired to show loss of oil presssure.

I usually like to shift before then.

Pete

ohhhh ok

yeh i guess you should shift before then hahaha

[Preen59]

Thats a serious oil light, pete! good stuff.