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Some people say the GTI is the same as a diesel, but the GTI one is a fair bit wider than the stock Golf one & even the diesel, as I found out once I removed my damaged one from the GTI to swap over the fan shroud's.
It also has the later model radiator top mount's.
Bit strange about the temp sender failure. Almost like the excessive pressure build up from the blown headgasket may have cause the failure too!
Would be good to read the write up on the cam tune. It should be pretty lean at the moment if you haven touched anything.
I know my change from a 270 to 276 went from spot on CO% to very, very lean.
I don't think the pressure could have blown the sender, it's still sealed. What may of happened is that the sender died from excessive temperature when I cooked the head and became shorted internally. Then when I hooked it all back up today the short heated up the internals 'till it blew the back off the sender.
Yeah tuning will be fun. Got to find myself a EGA or find someone that's half good with K-Jet.
I don't think the pressure could have blown the sender, it's still sealed. What may of happened is that the sender died from excessive temperature when I cooked the head and became shorted internally. Then when I hooked it all back up today the short heated up the internals 'till it blew the back off the sender.
Yeah tuning will be fun. Got to find myself a EGA or find someone that's half good with K-Jet.
Pete
True. Does sound feasible for sure.
I recommend to go to a Auto elec as they normally have 4/5 gas analyzer's. Some of them will let you tune your car for about $20-30.
Set the CO% to around 2.0% & it will be fine. This is what I've alway's set my mixtures at & have never had any problem's. Don't worry about the hydrocarbons or anything else on the meter, just CO%.
2.0% should also be around 14.5AFR too with that cam which is alittle on the rich side at idle
Just so I'm clear on this. The only adjustment needed is to the 3mm allen headed grub screw "down the hole" to adjust the mixture?
Just double checking what I've read.
I'll need to do this a few times while I'm playing with injectors and fuel distributors.
Pete
Yep.
I normally play around & set the ignition timing to start with (normally stock on PULP), then the idle speed (around 1000rpm without the rad. fan running)& then the mixtures. I adjust the mixtures, rev the engine up a couple of times & wait for the reading's to settle (may take upto a minute to settle), then repeat if another adjustment is necessary. Also try & set the mixtures when the rad. fan isn't running too.
Clockwise, richen's the mixture, anti-clockwise lean's it out. Only small adjustment's are needed, as it's very sensitive. Sometimes the adjustment screw can be stiff & you can go way over where you wanted to be.
Just play around with it & I'm sure you should have no problem working it out after a couple of goes.
I figured out that my motor still has the MK 2 temp sender in place so I'll try wiring that up to the temp gauge in the dash.
I ordered VDO black face water and oil temp gauges to go with my oil pressure gauge. I was surprised at the range of novelty decorative gauges on the market at the moment. Smoked lenses, reflective faces, multicolour backlighting etc, all I wanted was something that was accurate, clear to read and reliable!
The VDO gauges are pretty good value too at around $50ea , they compare well to the "type R/S/Drift" units out there.
I think I'll buy my gauges from an instrumentation manufacturer rather than an accessory vendor.
I had a crack at setting up the ignition timing, I think it's right now although I seem to have an lot of static advance dialled in. It doesn't ping though.
I'll have access to a co meter in the next week or two to set up the mixture and I've figured out how to get those 16v injectors in there by then.
My wonderfully supportive partner Jodie has offered to fund a race suit for my birthday in July (Does this mean I'll be racing in my birthday suit? )and there's sprints coming up at the island and Sandown during July so it looks like things are coming together for another day or two at the track.
16v injectors are in. These made a difference and were definatley an improvement.
Then I set the mixture levels, they weren't too far out of whack, around 3.0% CO initially.
Once I'd baselined all of that I swapped out the fuel metering head for the Volvo 2.4 L one. I took it for a quick trip 'round the block and wow, what a difference! The original must have been playing up, the new one has given me back some of that torque I was missing. There's still some tuning to do but this thing has potential! The mixture was well off @ 7.0% CO, it took a couple of turns to wind it back down. Now for the fine tuning and road testing.
Jodie bought me a new harness for the car for my birthday so I spent some time sorting out the mounts. The new harness is a 6 point clip in affair so there was a few eyebolts to install.
I also managed to finish off the gauge install and repair factory temp gauge.
I never listen to the radio anyway! The fuel Gauge is just to fill the hole, it's not functional, you can't see that position past the steering wheel. I'm not sure what will end up in that spot.
I'm still thinking about the best layout for all of these, there's another 2 in the console.
Replace the fuel with a big orange light so if there is no oil presure it turns on and that means shut the baby down... Saves some money just incase things goes wrong...
Your belt pickup eye bolts are very nice, Pete. Very well thought out.
Q: Did you purchase that rear tower brace or make it? The welds are very neat on it. If it was a reasonable price, i'll buy one instead of making my own.
Also, your oil pressure and volt gauges are identical to the ones i've got for my car!
Replace the fuel with a big orange light so if there is no oil presure it turns on and that means shut the baby down... Saves some money just incase things goes wrong...
Replace the fuel with a big orange light so if there is no oil presure it turns on and that means shut the baby down... Saves some money just incase things goes wrong...
U can get the presure thingo in the head
You mean sender unit?
Yeah good idea. Thats what i'm going to do with my car.
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