Wreck to Race.

[Jarred]

gah. memory like A goldfish I reckon I've got. I'll re read everything else before I ask anymore questions in future!

[Peter Jones]

I know a guy that sells EBC greenstuff pads, and he can get the 239mm GTI pads... Well atleast last time i spoke to him.. How come you say they are not available?

Because My callipers are unique! Matt assures me they're GTI and I occasionally see the correct pads listed on US e-bay, but I don't think many GTIs were fitted with this particular calliper. Most catalogues show them as fitted to Audi 80s and Volvos. I've been in contact with the EBC importers here and they don't do the greenstuff pads for this calliper according to the EBC factory in the UK.
Greenstuff pads are available for the regular kind of GTI callipers though.


My front pads look like this.



Pete

[Preen59]

gah. memory like A goldfish I reckon I've got. I'll re read everything else before I ask anymore questions in future!

Some (obviously bored and very lonely) people did a study on them and apparently they can have a memory span of up to 18 hours, and not 30 seconds like commonly thought! I bet you all feel dumber for knowing that now..

[Preen59]

Because My callipers are unique! Matt assures me they're GTI and I occasionally see the correct pads listed on US e-bay, but I don't think many GTIs were fitted with this particular calliper. Most catalogues show them as fitted to Audi 80s and Volvos. I've been in contact with the EBC importers here and they don't do the greenstuff pads for this calliper according to the EBC factory in the UK.
Greenstuff pads are available for the regular kind of GTI callipers though.


My front pads look like this.



Pete

Oh, well there you go! Are they early Mk1 GTI calipers or something? Maybe they originally came out with your caliper before VW opted for the one that is most common for the 239 GTI brakes? Strange that VW did something like that.. Usually they exhaust every avenue of existed VAG equipment before they go and make something new.

[Jarred]

nah not really. cause it was more than 18 hours ago that it was first posted. so there. yea. Wait whats that, I'll get to china soon? oh okay. I'll stop then...



and BTW, who the hec does a study on the memory span of goldfishies???
sounds like it was a Government study too...

[Peter Jones]

I forgot to mention that I managed to get the booster and master cylinder in last week too.

MK3 booster and 22mm master cylinder, scirocco proportioning valves on the rear lines. Nissan Pulsar Fluid reservoir.

[Preen59]

I forgot to mention that I managed to get the booster and master cylinder in last week too.

MK3 booster and 22mm master cylinder, scirocco proportioning valves on the rear lines. Nissan Pulsar Fluid reservoir.

Ok, now i don't want to sound like i'm ridiculing anyone here (especially you pete, you seem pretty damn switched on) but..

Do you realise that putting a bigger booster on a car's braking system doesn't make the car stop better.. It just means that you don't have to push your foot as hard.

In my opinion, for a motorsport car, i'd want to run (and i am) a small booster or none at all, because the more brake boost you have, the more spongy the pedal is and also it means that it will be more sensitive, which isn't necessarily a good thing when you want to be braking as hard as possible and heel-toeing.

Its not my car and i'm not saying you should do what i say, just my thoughts.

[Oneofthegreats]

I also replaced the injectors seals and discovered I have one odd injector. some thing else to fix!

3 of them look like this.



But the one on no1 cylinder is made of brass and looks like this.

Those picture's brought back nightmare's for me Pete.

My car strangely had a stutter off idle when K-Jet engine was originally fitted & took absolutely ages to figure it out, from swapped over coil's, distributor's, ignition lead's, rotor button's, TCI unit's, Fuel distibutor's, accumulator's & air flap's, playing with CO% etc.

Came down to removing the injector's & flow testing them only to find one of the injector's had the end cap, one had stuck in the head & the other two injector's didn't have them at all. All the same injectors too.
Removed the end cap's (the one stuck in the head was a bastard!), readjusted the CO%.

Bingo!!

Moral of the story. Make sure they all have the same part # & are also visually identical.

[Peter Jones]

Ok, now i don't want to sound like i'm ridiculing anyone here (especially you pete, you seem pretty damn switched on) but..

Do you realise that putting a bigger booster on a car's braking system doesn't make the car stop better.. It just means that you don't have to push your foot as hard.

In my opinion, for a motorsport car, i'd want to run (and i am) a small booster or none at all, because the more brake boost you have, the more spongy the pedal is and also it means that it will be more sensitive, which isn't necessarily a good thing when you want to be braking as hard as possible and heel-toeing.

Its not my car and i'm not saying you should do what i say, just my thoughts.

Never fear all opinions are valid.

To tell the truth I never actually considered this line of reasoning.

My first "race" car was a beetle and had no boost whatsoever of course.

The booster in this car was effectively not working at all. The car was originally a GLD and I suspect, although I have not been able to confirm this, that the GLD boosters are different because the motor should be running a vacuum pump which I'm theorizing produces more vacuum than a petrol motor.

So the first objective was to get a functional booster in there.

Secondly I'm putting Mk 3 rear brakes on this car and the collective wisdom of the internet assures me that a 22mm master cylinder is the way to go. Now a 22mm master cylinder won't go onto a MK 1 booster so MK 3 booster it is.

Valver was kind enough to supply both items.

One day I'll build a dedicated track car and then I'll consider running proper pedal boxes and no boost. I've always wanted to build one of those setups complete with an inline hydraulic handbrake.

I'll see how this works out for now - if it sucks I'll change it. I'm getting pretty handy with the brake stuff now!

Pete

[Peter Jones]

Those picture's brought back nightmare's for me Pete.

My car strangely had a stutter off idle when K-Jet engine was originally fitted & took absolutely ages to figure it out, from swapped over coil's, distributor's, ignition lead's, rotor button's, TCI unit's, Fuel distibutor's, accumulator's & air flap's, playing with CO% etc.

Came down to removing the injector's & flow testing them only to find one of the injector's had the end cap, one had stuck in the head & the other two injector's didn't have them at all. All the same injectors too.
Removed the end cap's (the one stuck in the head was a bastard!), readjusted the CO%.

Bingo!!

Moral of the story. Make sure they all have the same part # & are also visually identical.

I bought the seals in from the US, the seller also had a puller tool for the injectors which I also bought. The puller was only a few dollars and made the job a bit easier although none of mine were particularly stuck in there.

I'm slowly changing out all the components in the K-Jet system as they pop up on e-bay. The pump was the first to go as it was siezing every now and then and blowing all the fuses when I first got the car. The previous owner knew about it 'cos I found a couple of packets of the right sort of fuse in the glovebox.

I've also replace the auxilary air valve with a new one and now the cold idle circuit is working again.

I have an electronc distributor. Cleaning the contacts for the wiring loom at the distributer gave me back a heap of missing horsepower. The distributor wiring was very ordinary so I've reworked all of that. I ordered in a new ignition module and hall effect module for the ignition. I had them sitting on the shelf for about a week when the old ignition module in the car blew up one morning. I was pretty pleased with myself for anticipating that one!

I'll change out the distributor module once I've got the motor started back up. I don't want to change everything all at once, it gets too hard to fault find.

Pete

[roccodingo]

I also replaced the injectors seals and discovered I have one odd injector. some thing else to fix!

3 of them look like this.



But the one on no1 cylinder is made of brass and looks like this.

Top injector is the air shrouded type, uses 2 seals., As Loon said the lower one is a brass version of the earlier non shrouded injector.

Air shroud is supposed to help cool the injector and allieviate the fuel vaporising, prob aids in air moving around the nozzle as well ??

the pressure limiting valves were the 1.5 cut of pressure version not the 3.5's ..?

looking good Pete, glad you have the time to put into it mate.

[Peter Jones]

A Few updates.

Today was cool enough to weld so I broke out the gas and got busy.

The shock towers had been abused by the previous owner who had cut two coils off the springs AND oxy'd them. The struts themselves were stuffed too so you can imagine the hammering the towers took. There were cracks in the paint and seam sealer indicating that the towers had had a few good wallops.

For every one's interest, the wisdom that was given to me on the subject was that you should weld one inch long beads with 1 1/2 inch gaps between them. This is apparently to still allow for some flexing. Normally a mig would be used for this job, an oxy would usually be too hot and distort the metal too much. My torch is unconventional and designed for this sort of stuff so I can get away with it. I bought it years ago and it's served me well. If your curious see http://www.amweld.com.au/

Preparation.



The white thing is a fire proof blanket so I didn't send the K-Jet system up in flames.


In progress , the paint and body deadener caught fire a few times which is what all the black soot is from.



And here they are cleaned up, etch primed and seam sealed.

I'll paint them tomorrow when the seam sealer has gone off.

I'm going for the factory brushed on goo look.





The fumes from the burning paint and deadener were pretty fierce and I was using an air drill with a wire brush. So for those of you that haven't met me here's what I look like.



Red was looking a bit lonely and left out of all the attention, so it got a shiny new air cleaner today.



I managed to get the new tie rods in before dark today too. The inner ends on the old ones are pretty loose and had a small amount of play in them.



More work to do tomorrow!

Pete

[Jarred]

yep. that's pretty much how I remember you looking the last time I saw you! hahaha

Good to see you're still pluggin away at it.

how does the red car sound with the ramflo on it?

[Preen59]

A Few updates.

Red was looking a bit lonely and left out of all the attention, so it got a shiny new air cleaner today.

Ooo, RAM flo. If it was a honda or similar you could expect atleast a 25hp gain.. But it is red, so possibly more...

Looking good Pete, its nice to see someone doing things right without going over the top.

[Peter Jones]

how does the red car sound with the ramflo on it?

Exactly the same way it did with the paper filter! There's hardly any induction noise out of this motor.

I changed it because I can't be stuffed hunting around for the right sized paper element at service time. All I have to do is wash it and re-oil it now.

Pete