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I'm surprised that you're running out of fuel with one of these pumps, they'll usually flow litres per minute. I used one on my 1835 beetle feeding twin 40 DCNs and it had no problems, even with some pretty massive fual comsumption under race conditions. (About 5 + litres / lap of the old Morwell Hillcimb track)
Pete
nah i havent quite fitted my one yet mate, it was running out of juice with the mechanical fuel pump
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
It's a modified 1600 one. Basically you pull the vacuum advance plate and can out and have the dizzy recurved. From memory I think it's 30° all in by about 3500rpm similar to the aircooled 009s. I'll have to check those figures.
Pete
yeh thanks!
Atm i've just plugged the vacuum advance holes, but i'd rather do it right
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
Throttle cable's done now, very pretty, it almost deserves a thread of it's own. Tomorrow night I'll swap the dizzy and coil out ready for tuning on the weekend.
Well where's the pics of the throttle cable then??
$2.99 Huffy universal brake cable from K-Mart Cheapest part of the exercise.
Starting from the Carby end.
I turned down a section of bolt, cross drilled it and sweated the cut end of the cable into it using silver soldering flux and convential electronic 60/40 solder.
To retain the sheath of the cable I centre and step drilled through a M8 bolt this will provide fine adjustment of the cable length if required. The bracket the bolt is screwed into was tapped and a nut is used to lock the adjustment.
At the firewall the hole into the cabin is quite large so I used a 12mm flanged bolt again step and centre drilled. By step drilling I mean that I drilled a 2mm hole right through the bolt and opened it up at one end to 5mm to a depth of about 7mm in order to retain the cable sheath. Neat , huh?
Time to eat dinner now I'll show you the pedal end when I've eaten!
Oh, and the teks-nical term for "step drilling" is "Counter Boring".
Counter boring it is!
Here's the other end of that bolt, I used a counter sinking bit to chamfer the cable exit point to reduce wear.
I didn't want to modify the pedal too much so I clamped m8 mudguard washers either side of the circular part of the top of the pedal. This should keep the cable bearing on a smooth radius.
Tha cable's clamped against the shaft of the pedal with a thick m6 washer, bolt and nylock .
Pretty happy with the way it turned out, I might make up a spare to keep handy trackside but I think this will last for quite a while.
You could use a dissy from a carby Mk2 or Cabriolet or Scirocco for one with hall effect sensor and mechanical advance
Have missed this thread for a while, just re-read it all. Nice work. Carbys will probably go better than the kjet, but use more juice.
I didn`t have to modify the rail on the Mk1 Caddy or the Rocco for the bigger belt setup, maybe its a year model thing.
Have fun on the track
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There's no video , just some fuzzy pics to keep the bandwidth down and because it was too dark.
(Hope this works)
The clip is 2 minutes form cold start. Didn't fire first go because I didn't pump the throttle at all. Second time it fires there's a delay as I move from reaching through the window to turn the key to getting to the throttle linkage in the engine bay all while juggling the camera in one hand.
Didn't give it much of a rev for this either, the engine's cold remember.
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