cooling on an AGU

[tommymac]

yer fair enough ill have to grab you a all a pic but yer man there is some odd **** going on here, I bypassed the H.C and it felt like it was filling up more but still no luck! the cluster read 105 degrees and i bricked it I know the lines are correct as i followed a flow diagram but it just isnt flowing!! The only clue I got today was that I used after market screws to hold the rad in place and when one of them was out coolant was pissing out of it. I'm talking about the little black lug holes there are 4 on each side of the rad so unless the screws are blocking flow im about the go *****g mental.

[Peter Jones]

Where is the highest point in the top hose? At the block or at the radiator?

The small diameter (8mm) return line to the coolant tank needs to be tapped off the highest point to bleed the air out of the system.

In the MK3 onwards motors it was taken from the block outlet, in the MK 1s it comes off the radiator nipple.

You might need to do someting like I did and tap into the top hose directly using a temp sender adaptor. In my case I was using a MK3 1800 with it's original raditor but because the radiator got mounted higher I was getting air trapped in the top hose.

If you have to make something up, just be careful, the barb that comes off the MK1 radiator for this hose is restricted internally, you'll need to make a similar restiction in your setup.

I used a brass 8mm barb and soldered it closed. I then drilled a hole through the solder the match the diameter of the ID of the MK1 barb, about 3mm if memory serves.



Pete

[Peter Jones]

OK upon re-reading, you're running a MK2 radiator upside down in a MK2?

The 8mm nipple will be at the bottom of the radiator then, your water pump may just be sucking air from the coolant bottle if you're still hooked up that way.

Where is the small hose to the coolant resevoir connected to?


Pete

[tommymac]

peter,

hows it going mate?

well the highest point is the cylinder head my top hose sits below the cylinder head and sort of slops up at a shallow angle as it reaches the top rad inlet, now my rad is upside down so the nipple on the rad is racing up pointing at the drivers QP. now maybe this is all becuase its upside down! I dont know basically on my motor there is are 2 lines which return to the expansion tank one is tapped in the top hose from the factory and the other is from the rad nipple which as I said is at the top of the rad now, obviously it would have been at the bottom in the OEM mk2 set up, i wonder if this is causing an issue?

[h100vw]

Maybe try filling it up through the top hose?

Gavin

[tommymac]

yer are you sure that nipple used to be at the top? my inlets are now on the Drivers side not like the mk2 where they are on the passenger side. (from mem)


so i dont know where this air lock is coming from?

[tommymac]

Maybe try filling it up through the top hose?

Gavin

yer my mate said that too,

just bare in mind the screws i'm using to hold the rad to the mounting brackets (the 4 little nob things that stick out on each side) must have been punctured by the screws because coolant pisses out of them if the screws are not in, maybe this is an issue?

[h100vw]

I dont think so if the holes are sealed when it's under pressure.

Gavin

[tommymac]

yer they are fine when there in, its very odd hey, im starting the think i have a serious block in the galleries or the water pump has shat its self even if its new and has the metal impeller to stop it spinning on its self.

[Peter Jones]

peter,

hows it going mate?

well the highest point is the cylinder head my top hose sits below the cylinder head and sort of slops up at a shallow angle as it reaches the top rad inlet, now my rad is upside down so the nipple on the rad is racing up pointing at the drivers QP. now maybe this is all becuase its upside down! I dont know basically on my motor there is are 2 lines which return to the expansion tank one is tapped in the top hose from the factory and the other is from the rad nipple which as I said is at the top of the rad now, obviously it would have been at the bottom in the OEM mk2 set up, i wonder if this is causing an issue?

All's well, just fresh back from the US and not looking forward to work on Monday.

I run MK2 radiators in both my MK1s now, the nipple end's up at the top on the driver's side along with the upper and lower hose connections. I always assumed this was the right way up! (I haven't seen a lot of MK2s )



This motor is a 2E 2.0 MK3 motor.

Bottom hose goes directly to the pump.
Top hose goes directly to the Head.

Heater comes off end of head, throught the switch and heater core and through a metal pipe back to the pump. The coolant bottle is Tee'd off that metal pipe.

Hope that helps,

Pete

[Peter Jones]

yer they are fine when there in, its very odd hey, im starting the think i have a serious block in the galleries or the water pump has shat its self even if its new and has the metal impeller to stop it spinning on its self.

You can check the impellor from under the car with the thermostat housing off. You should be able to put a couple of fingers up in there and feel it turn when you spin the pump pulley.

BTW my car has an 80° thermostat in it. I got it from GAP.

Pete

[h100vw]

Pete, That's how the rads are in the MK2.

I'd be surprised if the pump was dead. Easy enough to remove the stat and test it. The pump could be checked at the same time.

Gavin

[tommymac]

ah but the AGU motor has an internal water pump, the mk2 had an external right?

haha yer i think you have been running them the wrong way round! never mind mine is set up exactly like that

[tommymac]

ah im confused maybe i thought i was going to run mine upside down then didnt ah tool!

[tommymac]

ok so best thing to do is to turn the motor with the stat off? so see if the pump is running?

whilst thats off i recon running water through the car to check for a blockage might be a good idea?