Penrite pink coolant is it really VW approved?

[Transporter]

Hmm, then open the Yellow Pages and see how many cylinder head reconditioning workshops are there, go and see one and check out how many heads are corroded there. Then, take my advice and change that coolant every 3 years even if they say it was a lifetime fill (we all know what that means - usually 5years/120,000km), you can stretch the first coolant change to 4 Years in the VAG car. But ofcourse if you keep your car only 3-5 years do nothing about the cooling system.

Honda, Toyota, Mazda coolant life is 8-10 years and I didn't hear that their cooling systems corrode. However VAG cooling system is often topped up and that IMO reduces the life of the coolant greatly, plus often the w/pump needs replacing sooner, or if fitted with the timing belt the w/pump will be replaced at the same time (most likely). So in reality the VAG coolant stays in the engine less than 5 years when engine has the timing belt, but now it could be up to 7years before the coolant is changed. So, I would definitelly change it at the 4th year.

Changing the coolant every 3 years may void the cooling system leaks, it could save your engine if/when overheated because of the leak. Corroded coolant connectors and radiators cost more than the cost of the coolant change.

[noone]

I use the Penrite, I bought it based on the other thread and that is was $50 for a 5L of Pre-mix.

Its hard to get some past the same colour, same stuff attitude (mechanics included). I don't understand it, but I'm happy with the price for G12+ approved, not going to burn a hole in my pocket.

The other variable / question is what water to mix it with, distilled, demineralised, tap, etc.

[Guest001]

If changing to a different coolant it says on the Penrite info page that A COMPLETE FLUSH SHOULD BE DONE FIRST

Whether the theory behind that is to sell more product or for sound technical reasons I will leave up to you

[kaanage]

That's correct to prevent contamination if the system was using a different (nonG12/G12+) coolant. If topping up with Penrite Magenta in a system with VW G12, then you don't need a system flush.

However VAG cooling system is often topped up and that IMO reduces the life of the coolant greatly, plus often the w/pump needs replacing sooner, or if fitted with the timing belt the w/pump will be replaced at the same time (most likely). So in reality the VAG coolant stays in the engine less than 5 years when engine has the timing belt, but now it could be up to 7years before the coolant is changed. So, I would definitelly change it at the 4th year.

None of which contradicts my statement about the stability of G12/G12+ if properly mixed. The water pump/timing belt change is an instance of an instance when the cooling system needs draining.

The other variable / question is what water to mix it with, distilled, demineralised, tap, etc.

For the coolant to be fully stable, you need to mix with distilled or demineralised, deionised water. Tap water is probably used in most top up situations which does not meet the "properly mixed" definition (maybe I should have been explicit about that from the start but I thought the reference links I posted covered that - looking at the back at the links, they didn't cover the water) which leads to the degradation over time, mentioned by Transporter.

[noone]

I had the rep in spares @ VW tell me tap was fine, i use demineralized. Have not yet read the link.

[Tubbs76]

I would def use demineralised water.. Out of curiosity (not aying this is right or wrong) thought i would investigate further the diff between red v green coolant.. I found a very interesting article I thought I would share. Def worth a read

Antifreeze: Red or Green?

Enjoy the read

[Tubbs76]

Funnily enough, needed to go and pick up some oil and whilst in the shop, had a quick look at some of the green coolants at hand out of curiosity (sorry guys, im one of those real inquisative people) to take a look at specs, etc.. and many of them claim that they are compatible with VW Motors,etc.. Myabe the newer stuff has come along way in recent years. I guess like everthing, people have choices and ultimately the choice comes down ot the the end user. Most important thing is you do youe research before deciding to go either red or green,
By no means am I trying to state that red is better or vice versa.. it seems they both have their pros can cons.

[Guest001]

Funnily enough, needed to go and pick up some oil and whilst in the shop, had a quick look at some of the green coolants at hand out of curiosity (sorry guys, im one of those real inquisative people) to take a look at specs, etc.. and many of them claim that they are compatible with VW Motors,etc.. Myabe the newer stuff has come along way in recent years. I guess like everthing, people have choices and ultimately the choice comes down ot the the end user. Most important thing is you do youe research before deciding to go either red or green,
By no means am I trying to state that red is better or vice versa.. it seems they both have their pros can cons.

Lots of products state they are "compatible " with VW but it the ones that have "Approval" that should be used.

To get this approval they have to submit a product for testing (at a cost) and if it passes they get a letter like this which allows them to put "Approved by VW on the product container

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/oem_pdfs/EPLUS5W30_VW.pdf If it doesnt have that I wouldnt use it in my vehicles

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=6&id_products=272

[Diesel_vert]

These days, it would extremely unwise to go by colour alone when deciding which coolant to use, as demonstrated below:

G11 (VW TL-774 C)
Mono-ethylene glycol hybrid coolant (OAT with silicates but no nitrates, amines or phosphates) dyed blue.

G12 (VW TL-774 D)
Mono-ethylene glycol OAT coolant (no silicates, nitrates, amines, borates or phosphates) dyed red.

G12+ (VW TL-774 F)
Mono-ethylene glycol OAT coolant (no silicates, nitrates, amines, borates or phosphates) dyed purple.

G12++ (VW TL-774 G)
Mono-ethylene glycol lobrid coolant (OAT with reduced silicates, but no nitrates, amines or phosphates) dyed purple.

G13 (VW TL-774 J)
Mono-ethylene glycol and glycerine lobrid coolant (OAT with reduced silicates, but no nitrates, amines or phosphates) dyed purple.




In terms of chemical compatibility, all G12 and G13 coolants can be mixed with each other.

However, in terms of vehicle application, G12, G12+, G12++ and G13 coolants should generally be used in a forward-compatible (rather than backward-compatible) manner. As such, Volkswagen recommends that:

A car factory-filled (or flushed and refilled) with G12 should be topped up with G12 or G12+ or G12++ or G13.
A car factory-filled (or flushed and refilled) with G12+ should be topped up with G12+ or G12++ or G13.
A car factory-filled (or flushed and refilled) with G12++ should be topped up with G12++ or G13.
A car factory-filled (or flushed and refilled) with G13 should be topped up with G12++ or G13.

Always refer to the owner's manual on which coolant/s the vehicle should use.

Does anyone know or have experience in using the Penrite pink coolant? The label says its approved for VW and also mention equivalent to g12. Repco is currently having a sale on the 5l ones.

Penrite 4 Year Extended Drain (green) is approved for applications requiring G11 (VW TL-774 C).

Penrite 5 Year Extended Drain (magenta) is approved for applications requiring G12 (VW TL-774 D) and G12+ (VW TL-774 F).

If this is for your Mk2 Golf GTI, you could probably use any decent coolant that's on the shelf. I don't think a G12+ coolant is strictly necessary. Although if the price is right...

[Tubbs76]

cool. In about 6 weeks, im getting my timing chain done. Ill hold on till then and get them to do a flush and go to G13.

[Diesel_vert]

Even though one would always reco factory, to my knowledge, any pink / red coolant can be substituted. I find the toyota (red) coolant is very good and ran this for a while. comes mixed at 50/50 ratio. To be honest, there really is no difference between red and green coolant apart from the cost. one does not out perform the other. I know many people who have flushed their systems and have gone over to green for the simple fact that the long term running costs are far less.

Whoever told you all that is not strictly correct.

If we're talking in the context of older vehicles, then you could probably get away with that - but for modern vehicles, that just doesn't cut it.




Toyota Super Long Life Coolant
Mono-ethylene glycol hybrid coolant (OAT with reduced phosphates, but no silicates, nitrates, amines or borates) dyed pink.

Compare this with the VW coolants.




Traditional coolants that use inorganic additives, such as silicates and phosphates, tend to deplete much faster and require more frequent replacement intervals.

Newer coolants that use organic additives (organic acid technology or OAT) have significantly reduced depletion rates and require much less frequent replacement intervals.

Hybrid coolants use a combination of organic and inorganic additives.

Lobrid coolants use a combination of organic additives with a small amount of inorganic additives.

All four coolant types work well when used in their intended applications and when used as specified.




It is important to use the correct type of coolant specified for your vehicle, for reasons of material and additive compatibility, which affects corrosion resistance, deposit formation and, ultimately, component longevity (particularly aluminium and rubber swelling). There's more to coolants than just cooling.

Unless one hasn't already realised, the colour of the coolant is mostly arbitrary.

Always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Avoid mixing different coolant types unless stated otherwise.

In emergencies, it's simply best to top-up with water (preferably distilled or deionised) rather than mixing different coolant types.

[Transporter]

Good explenation Diesel_vert,

Whoever told you all that is not strictly correct.

That's very politely said. I say who ever said that, he was wrong.

In emergencies, it's simply best to top-up with water (preferably distilled or deionised) rather than mixing different coolant types.

I agree, the chlorinated tap water will react with aluminium in the engine and the radiator.

[Tubbs76]

Understood. Correct or not correct dependant on what context you are ref to. Either way, I'll def swap mine out for g13 when I get my chains done in about 6 weeks

[kaanage]

Good explenation Diesel_vert,

Ditto

Here is some further good information on VW cooling systems by ECS Tuning - the only real difference between G13 and
G12++ is that 20% of the MEG has been replaced with glycerine for environmental improvements (toxicity and CO2 production).
It also explains why the small amount of silicates were added to G12++ (and G13)

[Transporter]

Understood. Correct or not correct dependant on what context you are ref to. Either way, I'll def swap mine out for g13 when I get my chains done in about 6 weeks

I would stick with the G12++ which is more comon, and wouldn't mix them either, but that's only me. The flushing only needs to be done with the filtered/demineralized water, I wouldn't use the radiator flush or other chemicals unless there is oil contamination.