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  • #16
    Originally posted by Tubbs76 View Post
    Me personally,I wouldn't have accepted delivery with the swirl marks. in most cases, the swirl marks come from the pre delivery dept. cause the guy preparing the car doesn't know how to buff. As hard as it is, ive seen seen white cars with swirl marks which is near impossible to do..Part of the purchase price includes pre delivery.Get em to do it 20x if need be until u r happy.
    I would highly suggest NOT to keep taking it back to the Dealership detailers.

    If they had no idea in the beginning and introduced all of the swirls whilst detailing then chances are they will still have no idea and will keep doing so.

    Not to mention the amount of clear coat they are removing each time they throw a rotary at it.

    If i was you, give Mike or Pierre at Car Care Products a call and they might be able to point you in the right direction of someone in your local area that specialises in paint correction.
    White Scirocco R
    White MK3 Golf 2dr
    White Caddy (Work Van)

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Silver dub View Post
      I would highly suggest NOT to keep taking it back to the Dealership detailers.

      If they had no idea in the beginning and introduced all of the swirls whilst detailing then chances are they will still have no idea and will keep doing so.

      Not to mention the amount of clear coat they are removing each time they throw a rotary at it.

      If i was you, give Mike or Pierre at Car Care Products a call and they might be able to point you in the right direction of someone in your local area that specialises in paint correction.
      Agree. if they cant get it right after a few attempts.. def would take it somewhere else

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      • #18
        Definitely agree with all of the above.
        I was in exactly the same position when I got my mk6 black GTI.
        Did a tonne of research, and visited the guys at CCP.
        Got stocked up, got heaps of great of advice and haven't looked back
        I've even been doing family and freinds cars as well. It is quite addictive!!
        .If you get it done by a detailer I'm sure they will be more than happy to explain/ show you how to maintain it correctly.
        But definately wouldn't take it back to the dealership, as they are likely to just use a glaze that will fill rather than actually correct/

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Tubbs76 View Post
          the swirl marks come from the pre delivery dept. cause the guy preparing the car doesn't know how to buff..
          Buffing doesn't cause the swirl marks, there are caused by the incorrect washing method.

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          • #20
            It can if the pad is used on a dirty car ....
            8VSS2L/16 E9E9 XG MP SPP1 4ZD 6XK CSC5P with an extra free 10kW

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            • #21
              Originally posted by SilvrFoxX View Post
              Originally posted by Brads4wdmad View Post
              I am a Car Detailer with over 15 years Experience, Using a machine Buffer/Polisher with a Soft White pad Not wool with the orbiting speed of 1000rpm max of 1500rpm use a Good Quality swirl remover such as mothers or Meguiars and move the buffer/polisher side to side and up and down slowly and softly
              You should achieve a brilliant swirl free gloss
              Umm Brad, I am not a car detailer with 15 years experience but will say that there is a bit more to it than that, prep work such as clay and paint cleaner etc etc then correction then layer protection... but hey as I said I haven't got the experience
              I would assume that Brad assumes as a given all that prep has been done prior to the finishing that he describes (ie over familiarity with the subject)
              Resident grumpy old fart
              VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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              • #22
                Originally posted by kaanage View Post
                I would assume that Brad assumes as a given all that prep has been done prior to the finishing that he describes (ie over familiarity with the subject)
                But still, it was about as vague an answer as he could have given.

                "Using a machine Buffer/Polisher" - You mean RO or rotary. A lot of people are scared of rotaries, but I've never done damage with one, and once you figure them out you will never look back

                "Soft White pad" - There is a general trend with pad colours, but depending on the manufacturer there will be a massive difference in levels of cut/gloss from white pad to white pad

                "Good Quality swirl remover such as mothers or Meguiars" - I hope he means the proper meguiars stuff, not what you find at your local SCA. I do use a couple meguiars polishes, but only on rubbish dealer used cars. Any retail customer (that's you guys) gets Menzerna polishes, but again just listing a brand doesn't mean anything. There are always a huge range covered by each brand. Always look to a proper detailing supplier for paint correction products. I've been buying mine from carcareproducts and can't recommend them enough.

                "Move the buffer/polisher side to side and up and down slowly and softly" - There is SO much more to it than this. For example you will generally want to start out slowly to spread the product (how much product? Most people I see use too much) then speed up to work it in/break it down, and slow the machine down again to finish up. How long do you work the product? How slow to start/finish? There is a lot more to getting a GOOD result than just moving it around a bit and crossing your fingers.

                Finally, many cars (black cars especially) will want to be followed up with a finishing polishing on a finishing pad (let's say a black pad, but again it will depend on the manufacturer). This will remove any final defects and add to your paints depth and gloss.

                This isn't meant to be a "how-to" guide. I'm just pointing out that there is a LOT more to correcting your paint than what Brad mentioned in his single sentence. Just don't want people being misled.

                Also, I don't want to put people off doing this. It really isn't too hard, just takes a little bit of finding and getting used to the right products. Finding your perfect technique will just take time, but if you read up first and start out slow then you really can't mess it up

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