Originally posted by CardinalSin
View Post
Above Forum Ad
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Two Minds get a 103tdi now or wait for new one.
Collapse
X
-
-
Originally posted by Ryeman View PostGot it v happy and only $ 486 to insure (coles).
now to master the tech.
I'm with Coles too, $456 but it will be going up in a few years with the age penalty.
The little wheel on the right hand side of the steering wheel that controls the readouts in the centre of the dash is worth playing with.
Currently mine is reading an average of 5.1L/100km for today and estimating a total of 1130km from the 60L tank. The nice big digital speedo is a must have because the analogue dial is hard to read at a glance.
I tweaked the sound by backing off the treble a bit and increasing the midrange, left the base alone. Sounds great with a good track on JJJ and heaps of volume.
You might want to replace the headlight bulbs with something better and if you do, turn off the auto lights so they last. The more light for the same watts means less bulb life.
How clean is it when you look in the nooks and crannies?
Check the tyre pressures. Mine had 40psi in the front when 34psi is about right.
Are you running it in by the book or giving it some heavy throttle without revving it high to bed the rings in?
Comment
-
^^^^what bulbs do you recommend?
Are they a straight swap?
Can I update the DRLs to a brighter led simply?
I don't trust the optimistic readout I go fill to fill and discount the kms by ~5%.
Is oil consumption still an issue with VW diesels etc? (Agree about bedding in but full throttle is not my natural style)
Delivered in immaculate condition but haven't checked the tyre pressures yet.
Strange how ins premium goes up when the capital risk goes down.....I think it's more to do with auto renewal mentality...gouging....QBE wouldn't even quote
Comment
-
I bought a pair of Narva + 120% more light for $50 at the local shop.
It's a straight swap and the same watts so no problems. They aren't over twice as bright, more like +30% but worth doing.
Start on the offside one and use a mirror to work out where and how to release the clip before doing the tighter access nearside. There are a couple of posts on doing it. It's fiddly but otherwise a quick job.
I don't know if LED's are available for the DRL's but the bulbs they use are inefficient[dingy] to give a long life.
The fuel consumption readout is optimistic but once you accept it's reading about 5% under it's a good thing to gauge the economy. Especially if you change the set up so it resets each day and holds that average for up to 2 hours, that way you can see what you get for each trip instead of a long term average.
The odometer is usually accurate, it's the speedo that over reads by 5% on average because of the legal requirement that it mustn't under read but it can read up to 10% over.
Apparently oil consumption can still be an issue.
I'm surprised the insurance wasn't higher. Availability of parts and cost could be a negative factor?
What was the build date?
Comment
-
Originally posted by CardinalSin View PostI bought a pair of Narva + 120% more light for $50 at the local shop.
It's a straight swap and the same watts so no problems. They aren't over twice as bright, more like +30% but worth doing.
Start on the offside one and use a mirror to work out where and how to release the clip before doing the tighter access nearside. There are a couple of posts on doing it. It's fiddly but otherwise a quick job.
I don't know if LED's are available for the DRL's but the bulbs they use are inefficient[dingy] to give a long life.
The fuel consumption readout is optimistic but once you accept it's reading about 5% under it's a good thing to gauge the economy. Especially if you change the set up so it resets each day and holds that average for up to 2 hours, that way you can see what you get for each trip instead of a long term average.
The odometer is usually accurate, it's the speedo that over reads by 5% on average because of the legal requirement that it mustn't under read but it can read up to 10% over.
Apparently oil consumption can still be an issue.
I'm surprised the insurance wasn't higher. Availability of parts and cost could be a negative factor?
What was the build date?
So what can be done about the dull DRLs, the specs in the hand book mean nothing to me at this stage.
Reg papers say 2014 Skoda build plate 1/2012 which begs the ? how do they store them to avoid bore corrosion etc?
DP
Comment
-
Originally posted by Tonba View PostOil consumption an issue???
It sounds wrong to me for several reasons but that's what I was told.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Ryeman View PostThanks CS,
So what can be done about the dull DRLs, the specs in the hand book mean nothing to me at this stage.
Reg papers say 2014 Skoda build plate 1/2012 which begs the ? how do they store them to avoid bore corrosion etc?
DP
They all seem to have been built Jan and Feb 2012. There should be a sheet showing the battery has been charged every couple of months but apart from that it seems they've just been stored somewhere. Hopefully inside and not outside under cover? No wonder they are nearly all the same spec, Skoda Oz must have bought a job lot at a discount.
Comment
-
Originally posted by CardinalSin View PostI was warned by a Skoda service advisor not to change the oil until 15,000km because it could and probably would, cause high oil consumption. He claimed the oil from the factory is a different spec to allow running in and the fully synthetic oil would interfere with that. He also said expect it to use some oil at about 8,000km but that will stop by about 12,000km.
It sounds wrong to me for several reasons but that's what I was told.
I changed mine at 1500km, and it didn't blow up, or start consuming oil. Those cars have been sitting for a long time, changing the oil in them is a good idea in my opinion (change is due at 15,000km or 12 months...these are 24 months old).
I think it might be wishful thinking to believe they were stored indoors or under cover.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Copperhead View PostAh... another retelling of the old urban legend of the mythical break-in oil.
I changed mine at 1500km, and it didn't blow up, or start consuming oil. Those cars have been sitting for a long time, changing the oil in them is a good idea in my opinion (change is due at 15,000km or 12 months...these are 24 months old).
I think it might be wishful thinking to believe they were stored indoors or under cover.Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
Comment
-
Originally posted by Copperhead View PostAh... another retelling of the old urban legend of the mythical break-in oil.
I changed mine at 1500km, and it didn't blow up, or start consuming oil. Those cars have been sitting for a long time, changing the oil in them is a good idea in my opinion (change is due at 15,000km or 12 months...these are 24 months old).
I think it might be wishful thinking to believe they were stored indoors or under cover.
As I said, it sounds wrong to me too and I went ahead later and bought a genuine filter and some oil to 504/507 spec.
My rings were bedded in within 100km.
I hate to think where these cars were stored in Europe, the dealer said they were about a year old when they arrived here. To Adelaide I think? Then on the train across to WA and elsewhere, hopefully into a shed at that stage.
Comment
-
I would think they must have been stored under cover simply because the clear coat would have been 'etched' from atmospheric contaminants and would be v labour intensive to bring to the immaculate state that mine is in having examined it in full sun. There is no sign of it being 2 years old from a visual inspection.
I had a 1 yr old 'new' pulsar which was clearly etched on subsequent close examination.
Comment
2025 - Below Forum
Collapse
Comment