Another dead DSG, ...or maybe not?

[Antiplastix]

The Yeti went in yesterday to rectify a horrible rattle at idle. Has the 7 speed DSG. Turns out its the clutch packs need replacing, so along with soft ware upgrades and mechatronics recall they may as well give us a new one. As if.

[Transporter]

The Yeti went in yesterday to rectify a horrible rattle at idle. Has the 7 speed DSG. Turns out its the clutch packs need replacing, so along with soft ware upgrades and mechatronics recall they may as well give us a new one. As if.

I wish you luck and lets hope that the recall will solve all the issues with the DSG.

[Rooboy]

Wow sorry to hear about the DSG troubles. Hopefully that 's the end of them

[Ryeman]

Any chance an update on yr DSG problem?
How long was it off the road?
Did they elaborate on the specific issues?

I pick up my 103 DSG in a couple of hrs.......woopeeee!

[CardinalSin]

Any chance an update on yr DSG problem?
How long was it off the road?
Did they elaborate on the specific issues?

I pick up my 103 DSG in a couple of hrs.......woopeeee!

In the interests of a long DSG life, hopefully.

One thing worth doing is to slip it into neutral, the same as you would[should] a manual, when you stop for more than a short while.
It's trying to go in drive which means the clutch is being slipped. It doesn't matter with a torque converter because it's just fluid being heated but it does with a clutch, even one running in oil like our 6 speeds.
There are road works locally with a good 5 minute stop if you cop it wrong. I've found you can slip it into neutral and turn it off[windows down first] then restart and slip it back into drive. No need to go through to park or even depress the shift button.

[zei20t]

In the interests of a long DSG life, hopefully.

One thing worth doing is to slip it into neutral, the same as you would[should] a manual, when you stop for more than a short while.
It's trying to go in drive which means the clutch is being slipped. It doesn't matter with a torque converter because it's just fluid being heated but it does with a clutch, even one running in oil like our 6 speeds.
There are road works locally with a good 5 minute stop if you cop it wrong. I've found you can slip it into neutral and turn it off[windows down first] then restart and slip it back into drive. No need to go through to park or even depress the shift button.

that's essentially what the start-stop function does on equipped models.

AFAIK, when stationary, the clutches are disconnected. and I think in the manual they tell you not to have it in neutral for too long. no idea why!

[Ryeman]

that's essentially what the start-stop function does on equipped models.

AFAIK, when stationary, the clutches are disconnected. and I think in the manual they tell you not to have it in neutral for too long. no idea why!

But that's what I do, (saves brake globe life also) so what exactly is going on in the gearbox when yr waiting stationary.
my guess is the hydraulic pump is holding the clutch clear BUT I've noticed if I use the hand brake instead of the brake pedal it wants to creep forward as if it's slipping the clutch.
If only you could get the exact technical reasons backing their instructions.
Why are we treated as dummies and airheads?

[zei20t]

Yes, when your foot is NOT on the brake pedal and the car is in gear, it assumes you want to take off. With only the handbrake on and in gear, it makes the assumption you're performing a hill-start with the handbrake and performs the necessary actions. Which is why you should always use the foot brake.

as for technical information, good luck with that

[Blue103TDIDSG]

But that's what I do, (saves brake globe life also) so what exactly is going on in the gearbox when yr waiting stationary.
my guess is the hydraulic pump is holding the clutch clear BUT I've noticed if I use the hand brake instead of the brake pedal it wants to creep forward as if it's slipping the clutch.
If only you could get the exact technical reasons backing their instructions.
Why are we treated as dummies and airheads?

Confirm what OP said about leaving in gear
when you use the footbrake it holds the clutch out
there is no detriment to the clutch plates(s) - it's in the manual somewhere

If you choose to use the handbrake my guess is you MUST put it into neutral -
otherwise the clutch WILL be fighting the brake as you mentioned
unless you are doing a hill start - but then "hill holder" does that for you anyway

I noticed this when I drive into my garage - it is a tight fit and I have to go slow
As soon as you touch the brake (foot) drive ceases
as soon as you let the brake off the clutch engages - "enthusiastically"
very disconcerting as you try and creep into the garage
what I found best was to line up and at idle, drive 3/4 into the space before touching brake
this disengages the clutch and then it can "coast" the last little bit

If I stop 2 feet short when I let the brake off it wants to move off too quickly
and you can't use 2 feet either - also in the manual

Sorry if off topic

[CardinalSin]

Good posts.
So why could it be detrimental to use neutral instead of drive?
It shouldn't matter when shutting it down at roadworks with the engine off and I guess it's a bit pointless idling in neutral if the clutch is disengaged while you have your foot on the brake. It's just from a technical point of interest.

[Ryeman]

Good posts.
So why could it be detrimental to use neutral instead of drive?
It shouldn't matter when shutting it down at roadworks with the engine off and I guess it's a bit pointless idling in neutral if the clutch is disengaged while you have your foot on the brake. It's just from a technical point of interest.

I shall continue to use neutral n handbrake. All I want is reduced clutch plate wear. I'll take it up with service techs also.
I reverse in to my tight carport but luckily it's a slight downhill slope and with my left foot on the brake pedal it's easy but I hadn't realised the intracasies of reversing on the flat.

[CardinalSin]

Another thing I do with mine, cruising on country roads, is to shift it into manual so it locks in 6th gear to stop it changing down to 5th and 4th when 6th is quite capable of doing the job and holding the speed.
You wouldn't be changing down in a manual, you would let the boost do it's job.
That's got to be the best way to bed the rings in when it's new too. It keeps the revs down but lets you use max boost to force them out before it the bore starts to glaze and harden.

[Ryeman]

Another thing I do with mine, cruising on country roads, is to shift it into manual so it locks in 6th gear to stop it changing down to 5th and 4th when 6th is quite capable of doing the job and holding the speed.
You wouldn't be changing down in a manual, you would let the boost do it's job.
That's got to be the best way to bed the rings in when it's new too. It keeps the revs down but lets you use max boost to force them out before it the bore starts to glaze and harden.

Engineers now take into account that almost nobody knows what goes on, particularly during the running-in process, so I sometimes wonder whether 'our' knowledge is being used to solve a problem that no longer exists.....in other word just go as per the manual.
In interesting to examine the Penrite website and notice the level of technical data compared to that of a vehicle engines metallurgy for instance.

[Ryeman]

I was in the habit of coasting up to the lights in neutral and if the lights changed quickly simply slip into drive with zero transmission shock......not sure with the DSG though, that's why I want to know exactly what goes on......and don't need a lecture on it being unsafe as I certainly don't if it is.

[CardinalSin]

Engineers now take into account that almost nobody knows what goes on, particularly during the running-in process, so I sometimes wonder whether 'our' knowledge is being used to solve a problem that no longer exists.....in other word just go as per the manual.
In interesting to examine the Penrite website and notice the level of technical data compared to that of a vehicle engines metallurgy for instance.

The sites that suggest using high torque to bed in the bores show some very convincing pics of the difference between the 2 methods when you look at the bores and pistons up close. If they are genuine and the materials being compared are similar it looks good to me but I agree we don't know for sure.
I have an engineering background and it seems right to me.