New Yeti

[Ramo]

Hey all,

Picking up my new Yeti 103 4x4 tomorrow. First time diesel owner. Sold my 2010 MX5 for this, so the transition is going to be BIG!

Any helpful hits or advise? I know it ain't going to handle like an mx5, but here is hoping I made the right choice!!

[bluey]

Hey all,

Picking up my new Yeti 103 4x4 tomorrow. First time diesel owner. Sold my 2010 MX5 for this, so the transition is going to be BIG!

Any helpful hits or advise? I know it ain't going to handle like an mx5, but here is hoping I made the right choice!!

My suggestions:

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f69/running-new-diesel-1236.html

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f28/bp-ultimate-diesel-specification-changed-70857.html

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f77/caltex-vortex-premium-diesel-6949-5.html

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/

http://www.superskoda.com/

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/index.html

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

Program the brain to fill with "diesel, diesel, diesel, diesel" and don't let anyone else fill it unless they are similarly programmed. A misfuel is a bad bad thing best avoided.

A bit of silicone/teflon spray is good for the head restraint posts. I think the handbrake sliding surround might need some too (haven't done yet). Lean the front seats back if the head feels pushed forwards.

Interested in your comments on handling compared to MX5. I am running 38psi front and 34 rear at present, a long-term habit from driving lightly loaded FWD hatchbacks. Have more fun driving the Yeti, esp round bends, than Audi A3 and A4 rentals.

Did you make the right choice? Yeti scored #3 in Wheels compact SUV test June 2012. The engine is the biggest weakness. Can chip it if you want more grunt. 125kW TDI Yeti is available overseas - erwin should have details of the differences in other parts. Wheels ignored some things I find especially good about Yeti - smallest turning circle by far, packaging versatility with the removable rear seats (like our outgoing Premacy), short overall length (25mm longer than Golf).

[NotYet]

It's a first-time diesel for me too. I have tried to get up the gears at lower revs than I would in a petrol-powered car - especially using the torque sweet spot from about 1750rpm.

Having been mainly a manual car driver, I love the tiprtonic DSG mode, esp in extra-urban driving. I tend to use it to changing down, for example when coming to a bend or roundabout. In going back up through the gears, I tend to go back into D and let the box do the work, which it does very well.

The Yeti is a sensational drive on a windy back road. Head for the hills and see for yourself. All the better if it's a gravel road - the grip and ride are amazing.

I wondered about whether to get a water trap for the fuel line, in case of a dose of bad fuel - which can be a disaster in a diesel engine. My mechanic thought it unnecessary - he said just fill up at major servos - but I'm still not sure.

One thing about diesel is that the price doesn't vary as much as petrol. Some servos don't even sell diesel and most have far fewer diesel pumps.

Congrats on your Yeti Ramo - hope you enjoy it as much as I have.

[Ramo]

Cheers guys,

Spent the day driving around and to be honest, didn't miss my MX5. Was too busy playing with all the little toys. Around bends, it ain't no MX5 but HELL does it drive well. Sure footed and a hoot!! So far so good. Getting used to the DSG gearbox though is ... I miss my manual, but the gear changes after initial take off is quite good.

[Transporter]

The S mode for quicker take offs from the intersections works well in our Tiguan.
As for the water in the diesel fuel; I use once a year Interject Diesel Care & Cure. It prevents water accumulation in the fuel tank. While I wouldn't drive off from the service station without adding Moreys Diesel Smoke Killer, it'sgreat for the DPF.

Enjoy your new ride and welcome to the oily side!

[wai]

On the filling it with diesel, a couple of things.

First, consider investing in something like the Diesel Key mis-fueling preventer. Search for Diesel Key on the web. It only takes a momentary lapse in concentration and you are in trouble. If you do this accidentally (can't see why you would do it intentionally ), do not start the car or even put the ignition key in.

Second, buy a box of disposable rubber gloves and keep them in the "glove box". Use them when you re-fuel. Unlike petrol, diesel does not evaporate so easily and so filler nozzles are generally covered in it. Also, the hoses are similarly coated in it. It just stops your hands from stinking.

[BJ75]

Given I'm now at only 3300km, I've only had to put petrol in 4 times that I remember, given it was full on delivery and gets over 700km a tank. I really notice the economy - mainly just not being at petrol stations as often (or as I call them, confectionery shops which also sell fuel)

Anyway, I've noticed on my Yeti that I have to put the diesel nozzle in sideways initially to get it past the little plastic stopper that sits just into the neck of the spout. Then once it's a little way in, I turn it back 90 degrees so it's in the normal position, and the little jagged ridge under the bottom of the dispenser nozzle rests on the spout neck, preventing it from going further in or coming out unexpectedly.

I don't know if this is a normal diesel thing, but I was under the impression it would prevent a regular petrol nozzle from easily sliding into the spout.

That combined with the diesel warning stickers I would've thought was enough (for me at least), in the off chance I drive up to the wrong bowser (which I so far haven't).

[Ramo]

Ha! Thanks guys!

I've got the gloves in there. My dealer put them in for me, as I am a first timer.

Do I really need to add a stop smoke? Will the exhaust smoke get worse as I run the engine in?

[wai]

The thing about the diesel nozzle is that it is larger than the ULP nozzle, so if a diesel nozzle can go in, generally a ULP nozzle can as well.

The mis-fuel preventers work the other way around. It requires a certain size nozzle to be inserted and this pushes on at least 3 buttons/tabs (the Diesel Key has 4) outwards that this releases a flap allowing the nozzle to be fully inserted. If the smaller ULP nozzle is inserted, all the buttons/tabs cannot be pushed outwards so the flap is not released.

The thing about making a mistake is that when stressed you might miss it. Also if someone else (even a dealer) adds fuel and makes the mistake, it is just as big a problem.

Anyhow, see how things go. You can always add one later.

On the rubber gloves, looks like VW/Skoda or the dealer have read the letter I wrote to the NRMA Open Road magazine where I gave this tip. In the grand scheme of things it is just a few dollars but is a nice touch for the dealer to do this.

[bluey]

On the additive question....there is more in links on diesel fuel I posted earlier. Short version: vw and skoda recommend fuel with a cetane min 51 for DPF equipped diesels. No pump diesel meets this standard. Lower cetane increases smoke. Smoke will clog up the DPF. A cetane improving additive will help. Morey's diesel smoke killer is effective and not expensive. A number of people have had trouble with DPFs. Replacement is expensive. Transporter is a diesel mechanic, so I trust his judgement and research.

[Ramo]

On the additive question....there is more in links on diesel fuel I posted earlier. Short version: vw and skoda recommend fuel with a cetane min 51 for DPF equipped diesels. No pump diesel meets this standard. Lower cetane increases smoke. Smoke will clog up the DPF. A cetane improving additive will help. Morey's diesel smoke killer is effective and not expensive. A number of people have had trouble with DPFs. Replacement is expensive. Transporter is a diesel mechanic, so I trust his judgement and research.

Thanks bluey!! I'll do exactly that then! I also noticed today that there is a big NO BIO DIESEL. Guess I wont make the mistake of filling up with anything but Diesel.