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Cooler, faster, better... Turbo Wraps & Intercoolers

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  • #16
    Anyone done any water spray intercooler mods?
    Found a small kit (DCI) which is about 1L.
    I also found a 100L weeds sprayer kit 4L per min.
    Toying with the idea of 100L in the boot for a track day.

    Brisbane is Hot atm that's all (35+) and I now have a JB4 so more heat
    Skoda RS 230
    "The Grey Ghost"
    SG-TP-AB RS230 - Timeline

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    • #17
      100 Litres (?!?) you will be slower because of the weight
      Before the days of E85 I did it in may LAser Turbo Race car, you just mist it, 5-10 litres in more than enough for 20 minutes, if you have a temp based switch even better

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      • #18
        I'm also toying with the idea of water/meth... Gotta fine tune the rest of it first, but would be beneficial - especially in this heat!
        2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
        1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
        1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
        Not including hers...

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        • #19
          After the Happy laps on Sunday at Lakeside.
          Ambient temp was around 30-40C

          JB4 Map 1 and 2 ran well.
          Temps were
          Inlet: 40 - 50°C when at full throttle
          Water: 95 - 108 °C (1/2 hour session)
          Oil: maxed out at 114°C.

          So maybe my 100L water tank is a bit over the top.
          Would be nice to get the oil a little lower.

          Yes 100L tank is heavy, but wouldn't need to fill it all the way once I had worked out how to deploy is to reduce temp.
          Air flow is key, so If I say out of traffic, then all is well....
          Skoda RS 230
          "The Grey Ghost"
          SG-TP-AB RS230 - Timeline

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Martin View Post
            ......But inevitably it collects moisture leading to corrosion - I see it all the time.......

            Reading an old thread & came across this.....

            Not negating what you're saying, as you have experienced it personally, but I'm curious how the heat of the exhaust could possibly allow enough moisture to condense or get trapped under the heat-wrap, without being boiled or evaporated out the next time the exhaust gets up to temperature?

            Wouldn't any moisture just get fizzled up?
            2016 Skoda Octavia 162TSI RS Wagon
            (Race Blue, DSG, Tech pack, Comfort pack, 18" Black pack, panoramic sunroof, auto tailgate)

            Previous: 2012 Mazda 6 Diesel // 2001 Subaru Liberty STi // 1991 Subaru Liberty RS Turbo // VK Holden Commodore // Subaru Leone // Mazda RX-808 // Mitsubishi Magna // 1971 Mazda R100 Coupe

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Martin View Post
              Not everything will be cooler, the turbo internals and the down pipe should be hotter - that's what I was referring to needing to be engineered for the extra heat
              Sorry to disagree Martin but none of the internals can actually get hotter than the original heat source i.e. the exhaust gas. Wrapping, blankets, coating can't make internal items hotter than they already are as the heat, which is at peak temperature, radiates out from the internal source. They may keep the outside surface hotter than standard in some instances, but we are talking about metal surfaces that are designed to take the maximum temperature of the internal heat on it's way through them to the outside world.

              What happens with effective thermal insulation is that the exhaust gas retains more of it's heat (doesn't lose as much to the metal surface then outside world), which helps it flow better & actually extract more of the heat from the combustion chamber & exhaust manifold etc so that in practice the external surfaces run slightly cooler than standard.

              With respect to wrapping it does retain moisture over time & will rust through pipes eventually.

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