Trolley jack lift points

[hitman]

Hey everyone, I want to put my Octy 118 up on stands to rotate all the wheels but have come to a crossroads as to where to jack it up with my trolley jack. On my previous car (GTR) it was easy as there was a big cross member in front to jack off and at the back was the suspension cross member as well but there is nothing on the Octy.

I don't want to use the sills as they will fold plus it's not very convenient to be jacking up one corner at a time, let alone very safe.

I searched here and there was nothing and also briskoda which had a few but none of them really get the point of jacking one whole end of the car up at once for some reason.


How do all of you jack the whole front end or rear end of your cars up? and also where do you put your stands.

[Umai Naa!!]

There's a big cast alloy subframe behind the engine/gearbox.

At the rear, you can jack them up off the subframe, in the middle, in front of the spare wheel well.

[hitman]

sweet, i'll have a look

[BottomScratcher]

I've never before had a car that I had to spend any time trying to find jack points. I suspect that the reason you have spent a bit of time on it, and have posted here is so that you can do what you need to do without causing any damage to your car. There are threads on other sites about hockey pucks, Audi jack pad inserts, blocks of wood, and the like. What I found after getting through most of them is DO NOT use any part of the suspension to jack your car, and/or support it on jack stands. Even the Audi jack pad adapter kit is designed for lifting at all four points simultaneously not one at a time, i.e. on a hoist.

So, unless you've got a hoist there's no easy answer. I jack at the factory recommended jacking points using a piece of wood on the jack plate with a slot wide enough not to interfere with the sill as the angle of the car to the ground changes. I've never used jack stands on this car. I'm not servicing it myself (yet), so I've had no need to. When I do I'll make up adapters for the jack stands to fit the sills. It's a bit of a pain rotating tyres with one jack. I have to use the spare wheel to rotate the tyres one at a time, but it doesn't take long, and I'd rather do that than risk bending anything on the suspension. A nylon coated wheel nut socket is also a must have item.

[Weekend-Warrior]

Stupid VAG cars. How much extra effort would it had been to integrate a jacking point in the centre of the car at the front and rear!?

I've come across this issue. I just use ramps or two jacks.

This is a much more elegant solution, however it’s expensive.

http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

[brad]

I'm not sure why bottomscratcher thinks the suspenion points aren't strong enough. Certainly the rear of the front lower control arm is plenty strong. There are a few other likely spots except the trolley jack tends to slip off them as they are small & at funny angles.

Generally, I just use the factory jack points & I have a big chunk of rubber with a groove in it to put between the jack plate & the sill seam

Also, you can lift 3 of the four wheels if you do it right (gets wobbly & scary looking though).

[zei20t]

Some suspension arms are pressed steel. loading them up in the incorrect spot can bend or warp them out of shape.

use the jack points, that's what they are there for.

rubber, wood blocks etc are all good to use on the trolley jack

[hitman]

hmmm, seems that all I read was right and there isn't a central jacking point at each end. This really is a PITA! There is a warning sticker on the rear suspension arms that say something to tune of not putting load on them i.e. jacking up from them.

one wheel at a time putting the spare on then swapping out seems the only way to rotate the wheels, which is going to make a 15 minute job a 1 hour long job

I already have jack stands designed to go over the sill seam like the factory jack and my trolley jack has a hockey puck and groove already, I just thought there had to be another way.

Thanks for the help guys

[zei20t]

jack up one corner. place axle stand under the jack point (well, close to it) then do it to the corner on the same side. then swap front to rear. do the same for the other side.

[dArK5HaD0w]

[hitman]

Maybe one of these will fit the bill

NEW 2 TON 4500LB AUTO CAR BODY ROTISSERIE TWIRLER RESTORATION LIFT JACK | eBay

[dArK5HaD0w]

scratch the rear axle.......

[brad]

Some suspension arms are pressed steel. loading them up in the incorrect spot can bend or warp them out of shape.

Sure.
You'd never lift in the centre of an arm - but you probably couldn't because there's nothing for the jack pad to grab onto.

Generally you can lift on a pivot point or knuckle.

Each time you lift you should assess what may happen & the appropriateness of what you are doing.

[brad]

scratch the rear axle.......

Nothing like that on my car. Maybe they've reduced the gauge of the steel?

I'd still have no issue lifting straight underneath the spring except it's a bit slippery. The pivot point up the front isn't too bad but I know from experience that the jack pad isn't totally secure in that spot.

[Guest001]

Nothing like that on my car. Maybe they've reduced the gauge of the steel?

I'd still have no issue lifting straight underneath the spring except it's a bit slippery. The pivot point up the front isn't too bad but I know from experience that the jack pad isn't totally secure in that spot.

Even in the pic about the jacking points the wishbone appears to have that notice which makes a bit of a mockery of the advice in the picture