If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed, registering will remove the in post advertisements. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
This means you should apply for your renewal now to avoid any disruptions to your membership whilst the renewal process is taking place! NOTE: If you have an auto renewing subscription this will happen automatically.
So is there a place / track where we can just roll up or book in to use it?
Do we have to be members of a club or something??
There are several ways to do it
Eastern Creek (MotorSport Park now) has self drive days $360
Or you go on a CAMS car club sprint day
You learn a lot and it's great fun for sure
Driving on a track in someone else's car is FAR better fun than in your own though I imagine!
Yes and no!
You get to drive equipment you can't afford or are not allowed to purchase
At Eastern Creek I once arrived at the end of the main straight doing 240kmph in a BMW M3
It had started to very lightly rain - the track looked fine to me and the lead driver did not back off
However, when I turned in the stability control kicked in, I could feel the ABS stabbing at the wheels
the car simply tightened it's line, it was a wonderful safety demonstration by the car
Given the car cost $150K I just let the stability control manage the situation
2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels
All you have to be concerned about is making sure that the oil has circulated through all the galleries and tubes. That takes about 30 seconds after that you are waiting for everything to get to correct operating temp for maximum efficiency but you won't do any oil related damage.
Sounds like an ideal way to spin a bearing. Metals expand at different rates so you need to achieve NOT before getting stuck in. If the crankshaft has expanded quicker than the crank bearings there won't be enough clearance for a boundary layer & threfore damage will result (that is oil related)
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
I've only driven mine in Summer (had it since mid December) but I've noticed my oil temp nearly always between 100-105 deg C just general highway cruising.
My previous car (xr5) only ran over 100 deg C a couple of times that I remember. Octavia seems to run hotter or it's reading temp from a different position. Anyone know where the sensor is and if they have a standard oil cooler (TSI)?
Most modern cars that I've seen with oil temperature gauges allow the oil temperature to reach 140-150°C before the vehicle warns you of a high oil temperature.
We know there's no inherent danger in revving the engine, or even cruising at, very high RPMs as it's part of the design brief - so long as you don't go beyond the redline.
Similarly, there is no inherent danger in allowing oil temperatures to reach very high because it's part of the design brief (for both the engine and the oil) - so long as you don't exceed the temperature warning threshold or skimp on oil.
Obviously, if the engine is likely to experience high oil temperatures for an extended period of time (frequent towing, track days, racing, etc) then it would be smart to deal with that by fitting axillary oil coolers and such.
However, in the same way that keeping the engine revs down would aid in its longevity, so will keeping the oil temperature down (but not too low, as you want it to be hot enough to deal with moisture, fuel dilution, etc - short trips are much more likely to kill the engine rather than high oil temps).
modern engines run much higher than 'older' ones. my last few cars have had water temps 90-100 and oil temps around the same. except when I give it the boot
The Water temp gauge on the dashboard is very quick to act... When the water temp is 90 and the oil temp is 50, the actual water temp is around 70^C.
The highest oil temp I've seen my diesel cruise at is 105, the lowest cruise (more than 10min) is 89. Highest I've ever seen it at is 112, but that was after some extreme driving up a huge hill.
I have water temps from 89-94^C. (OBD-II scanner)
Usually the water is at 89 and the oil is at 94-100.
2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
Not including hers...
modern engines run much higher than 'older' ones. my last few cars have had water temps 90-100
Agreed, modern engines are putting out a lot more power per litre which results in a lot more heat
After a journey on a hot day you can pop the bonnet and find it's unconfortable to leave your hand on the shock tower
The water should stay around 90 - can't have it reaching 100
2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels
of course you can have it over 100. the system is under pressure so its not going to boil. also additives will help prevent boiling.
.
For every 10kPa of pressurisation it raises the boiling temp of water by 2c? Typical pressurisation is ~120kPa?
With the correct ratio of coolant the boiling point would be ~130c?
This is why a radiator that doesn't appear to be boiling/overheated send out a huge geyser if you are silly enough to remove the cap when hot - release of pressure which then causes the water to boil
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
Comment