Towbar vs. Towbar

[Mysticality]

So!!
I have a conundrum, and would like to put forwards a vote.
I'm stuck between two towbars... as the title would suggest.


Bar #1:
Ironbull bar

Things that matter to me:
Extremely hard to find accessories
1,500kg weight rating
100kg ball weight
Price

Pics:





(IMG sauce: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...tml#post854364)


Bar #2:
Hayman Reece bar

Things that matter to me:
40mm detachable/interchangeable tongue
Can easily attach accessories (Bike rack; Thule cargo box; Caravan weigh distribution - "stabilizer" - bars)
1,300kg weight rating
75kg ball weight
Will probably be installed by the dealership.

Pics:







If I go for the Hayman Reece, I can change the tow cup on my camper trailer to the TREG hitch that I've been planning on doing for awhile now.
I can just take out the tow hitch unit and swap it with a 50mm ball, any time I want to tow something thats not my camper trailer.

If I go for the Ironbull, it will be stronger... But I won't be able to use the TREG on the camper trailer; nor use the Thule cargo box or bike rack I eventually plan to get.
I've had a look at the Euro-bar compatible versions, and I don't really like them all that much...


Things to note:
I eventually plan to get a small caravan (10-12ft; 800-1,000kg) - so the ability to use stabiliser bars would help.
I eventually plan to get a heavy-duty 4WD for bush camping, so will end up with TREG hitch for camper trailer ANYWAY.
The Octavia vRS is spec'd at 1,300kg max trailer weight, anyway, so the added capacity of the Ironbull bar would be more for peace of mind, rather than actual use.
I like the look of the Hayman Reece, and I dislike the look of the Ironbull... But that doesn't really mean much, as far as usability goes.
TREG hitch:




I'm really stuck.
What do you lot think I should go for?

[Ocy_RS_TDi_Kombi]

I would go the HR bar being the 40mm square hitch as it gives you better options and would seem a stronger unit.

The thing you'll have to note and it's with both bars the ball download limit is quite low at only 75kg. So you really cannot tow small caravans and the like as the ball limits on vans are normally higher than 75kg.

Stability wise I've towed a furniture trailer with both the Octavia and a NT Pajero (RX diesel) with the trips approx 200km long with suburban and freeway driving. When loaded up the trailer would be close to the 1,300kg pull limit and probably over the 75kg ball download limit. I found the Ocy very stable and it feel it could easily handle more weight to the point where I prefer towing with the Ocy over the Pajero. So if the weight of the trailer is under 1,000kg I don't think stability bars are required with the Ocy.

Performance and fuel wise the Ocy is heaps better than the Pajero.

[DunlopRS]

I have the HR unit and, at least IMO it is neat, practical and easy to use.

Perhaps its the electrics that need more consideration - lots of discussion in other threads. I was completely unaware of the complexities of the electrics before mine was fitted and I understand I only have a simple bypass system (have not really taken the time to confirm). In my case as the main trailer usage is for garden (& have many years experience with heavy trailers on cars & larger vehicles) I am not overly concerned - but if the correct loom lets stability/braking/traction systems adjust to allow for the trailer it would be the way to go.

[BottomScratcher]

I have the HR unit and, at least IMO it is neat, practical and easy to use.

Perhaps its the electrics that need more consideration - lots of discussion in other threads. I was completely unaware of the complexities of the electrics before mine was fitted and I understand I only have a simple bypass system (have not really taken the time to confirm). In my case as the main trailer usage is for garden (& have many years experience with heavy trailers on cars & larger vehicles) I am not overly concerned - but if the correct loom lets stability/braking/traction systems adjust to allow for the trailer it would be the way to go.

I fully agree with DunlopRS. Your car was designed to have a Euro 13 pin socket for towing electrics. The Euro swan neck hitch photo has a round socket next to it, but I can't tell if it's a round 7, or 13 pin socket. This would be my first consideration for towing a van, especially if it has electric brakes, or a weight distribution unit. For bike racks, or even box trailers doing the occasional garden run it's not that much of an issue.

For a Treg hitch the swan neck is out unless Treg make a demountable U coupling that would mount the bar instead of the swan neck. I'm pretty sure that they wouldn't as swan necks are still pretty rare here. In fact, I didn't know that they'd been made legal in Australia. It's not long ago that they weren't, but only because they hadn't been certified compliant with ADRs, and not because they were any less safe than any other bars. Anyhow, the standard Treg U coupling has a thread that bolts on through the same hole that the ball of either a HR or standard flat tongue towbar does. Is a Treg hitch really necessary? I might be wrong, but I thought the lightest rated one was 3 tons.

The Hayman Reece for Skodas is a 40mm receiver. Most HR bars are 50mm receivers, so it's a lower rated bar, but still adequate for your needs. Another option is a standard flat tongue and ball bar. Just remember that both the HR and the standard bar are usually 7 pin flat connectors. If either of these are a consideration I'd go aftermarket, and keep well shy of the dealers. I'm not anti-dealer, but the parts are the same, and you'll just pay dealer labour prices to have them fitted by a dealer.

The best I can offer at the moment is have a think about the Treg hitch, and then take a look at which wiring set up is going to suit your needs best. Whatever you decide on I'm sure I'm not alone in wondering what you have in mind for lights on the van.http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...ons/icon12.png

[BottomScratcher]

I forgot to ask, why can't you use your Thule bike rack, and what sort of cargo box do you mean?

[Mysticality]

The lowest rated TREG is something like 3,500kg. But the lowest rated 50mm ball is also 3,500kg.

I'm looking more long-term, here.
Eventually, I'm going to get a heavy duty 4WD, where the TREG on the camper trailer will be a requirement due to terrain. Would be handy to be able to use the Octy on long distance on-road trips, where economy is the key.

Well, the normal bike rack attaches to the car by being stuck under the tow ball - something you can't do with the swan neck.
Thule Australia » Products » Roof Boxes » Thule 665C Transporter Combi
Cargo box - for carrying more stuff that doesn't go in a trailer. (Things that aren't weatherproof, etc) Or for when a trailer is unsuitable.. (Holiday in a city, perhaps?)

I'm quite happy to have the Euro 13-pin electrics, and modify anything I get to work with it 100% (fog lights, individual parkers, etc)
I love leaving the Octy on the side of the road at night, with one side parkers on. Seen someone nearly hit it but swerve just in time... Very soothing.

Here's 20y/o the trailer with the camper slapped on it.


I'm leaning more towards the Hayman Reece bar.
I've had a look at a Best Bars bar on an Octy before... And I just think its ugly. Although, could it be an option?

[BottomScratcher]

I understand about the Thule Cargo Box now. I didn't realise that it mounted directly into a hitch receiver. I have a Thule towbar mounted bike rack that ratchets up onto a standard 50mm ball. Ironically Thule is a Swedish company that has reworked their Australian products so as not to have a European 13 pin plug, but our 7 pin flat one. Not that it matters, because you need the hitch for the box and the Treg. As DunlopRS said, there are a few threads on towbars, and towbar wiring, which I haven't fully read as I'm happy enough with my set up, but it looks more and more from where I'm sitting that your only option is a HR bar.

It might be worthwhile talking to Steve at Shop1auto, Gladesville, Sydney. They do the HR bars for Skodas, and are a sales agent for Thule. The other guys there are good at what they do, but Steve is the guy to talk to about wiring, and finding a good set up for what you want your towbar and wiring to do.

[Ocy_RS_TDi_Kombi]

I'm leaning more towards the Hayman Reece bar.
I've had a look at a Best Bars bar on an Octy before... And I just think its ugly. Although, could it be an option?

I have the Best Bars bar on my Ocy and admittedly it’s not the prettiest unit but works very well. However if the Hayman Reece bar was available at the time I would have taken it. The only problem with both bars is they are quite low at the back and you'll continually scrap the towbar coming out of driveways - the HR bar looks to be slightly higher up compared to the Best Bar

[DunlopRS]

The only problem with both bars is they are quite low at the back and you'll continually scrap the towbar coming out of driveways - the HR bar looks to be slightly higher up compared to the Best Bar

..... at least its only the towbar - and it hits the ground before something else (and it does often)

[Mysticality]

The only problem with both bars is they are quite low at the back and you'll continually scrap the towbar coming out of driveways - the HR bar looks to be slightly higher up compared to the Best Bar

..... at least its only the towbar - and it hits the ground before something else (and it does often)

You guys REALLY don't wanna see under my front bumper. Its carnage.

Bugger it. I'll go the HR.
Funnily enough - it was the shop1auto website that I was getting all the info from.
Skoda Octavia Tow Bars Sydney
Does the $1,100 include wiring? :S

[BottomScratcher]

Does the $1,100 include wiring?

Yep! The price is for the bar, #4828 ECU protection unit, and installation. You've probably sussed out the ECU protection - what it does and doesn't do - from other threads.

HR blurb on their Smart Click wiring here. You're probably the last person that needs to know how VAG lights work. The ECU protection is fused, so if there's a problem on the bar side of it your cars electronics are safe, and so is your warranty.

I haven't bothered to do anything about the reverse sensor alarm. I don't use the bike rack, or tow that often, and when I do I don't spend that much time reversing for it to be a major hassle.

[Mysticality]

Sweet!!
I love it when things are all-inclusive!!

So, just to get this straight, that wiring kit is just PnP?

I'm in I.T., and I did all my own 12v wiring for the camper trailer... But all this Control Unit stuff is just confusing!!

[wfdTamar]

That HR Smart Click page/brochure doesn't tell you if it's a proper electrics kit or bypass type.

[BottomScratcher]

Sweet!!
I love it when things are all-inclusive!!

So, just to get this straight, that wiring kit is just PnP?

I'm in I.T., and I did all my own 12v wiring for the camper trailer... But all this Control Unit stuff is just confusing!!

Not PnP. Depending on the capabilities of the of the control unit there'll be VCDS coding to do for parking sensor cancellation in reverse, and ESP (so the car knows it's towing when the socket is plugged in). Again, best bet, give Steve a call.

[Mysticality]

So... PnP. Then code.

I.E. It works the same as the stock Skoda unit?