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sound and heat shield under bonnet of RS??

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  • #16
    Originally posted by MarksVRS View Post
    Can you post a couple of clear photos Mysticality?
    Coming right up!!







    2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
    1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
    1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
    Not including hers...

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    • #17
      is it easily removable?

      i can't bear to imagine how hot it would b in the engine bay with that thing in summer!!!!

      it would b great in winter though - help the car warm up faster.
      MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS
      sigpic

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      • #18
        Those little black plastic clips, just squeeze and pull out!

        I'll remove it and leave it off for a few days to see if there's any difference.
        Will take pics - probs do it tomorrow.
        2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
        1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
        1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
        Not including hers...

        Comment


        • #19


          Here is a pic of mine as it came from factory...
          2018 Ralyee Green RS wagon. Fully optioned.
          Previous vehicles:2015 Volvo V60 Polestar (my one detour from VW/Skoda!)
          2013 Platin grey RS wagon / 2012 White Polo GTI / 2009 Black 125 Tiguan

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          • #20
            Originally posted by dArK5HaD0w View Post
            is it easily removable?

            i can't bear to imagine how hot it would b in the engine bay with that thing in summer!!!!

            it would b great in winter though - help the car warm up faster.
            The only thing that should change if you take it out is the noise level. These days engine temp is controlled by a quite sophisticated engine management computer and the cooling system (thermostat, coolant, and air flow). Fans provide airflow at low speed or at idle, but over 30-35 kph are useless, which is why they are now mostly electro thermostatic. Once you get over about 30-35 kph, the airflow due to the motion of the car is greater than the air being supplied from the pitch of the blades, so old belt driven fans are mostly costing horsepower by wasting fuel to drive a noisy fan that isn't doing any cooling.

            On the hottest summer day the engine temp is still running at its "normal" temp of 85C - probably still over double the ambient air temp. So long as the air being drawn over the radiator, either by the fan, or the motion of the car is cooler than 85C - what are the chances - the engine temp will stay "normal". And our simply clever Skodas have fans that even if the engine is switched off, key removed, and doors locked and the system decides the coolant temp needs reducing the fans will run on until the system again decides that they can shut off.

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            • #21
              Goes to show you how much boost effects oil temp.
              Trip to Sydney in the morning, downhill-ish, oil temp will cruise at 90. Trip home again, to Bowral, uphill-ish, oil temp will cruise at 100-105.

              First time I saw it I pulled over, thinking something was up.
              Every time I do that trip, it does it.
              2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
              1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
              1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
              Not including hers...

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Mysticality View Post
                First time I saw it I pulled over, thinking something was up.
                I was concerned the first time I noticed the oil temp at about 105 as well. I wasn't used to having an oil temp guage. Most of my other cars have had water temp, and oil pressure. Oil pressure while cruising is pretty constant, so it was something new to watch the oil temp guage climb from about 90 up to 105 - especially when you know the water temp should be steady around 85.

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                • #23
                  My 2007 118TSI didn't have the heat shield.

                  I got the dealer to supply one because the underbonnet looked unfinished. Fitting took me 10 minutes. Price was circa $100 but they did it as warranty IIRC (said the heat shield on another car was damaged I think).

                  AFAIK, the diesels have the heat shield & the petrols don't. It aids in the warm-up process.

                  I've never had an issue with excessive heat retention in the last 4 years/100,000km. I like the fact that the bonnet is insulated as I have had several cars where the paint on the bonnet stuffed up because of excessive heat from the engine.
                  carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
                  I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

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                  • #24
                    That being said about the water temp... it can vary between about 75-80 and over 100 before the gauge will move off 90.
                    The highest I've seen my water temp (via OBD-II) is 102, and the dial still had not moved, so...
                    2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
                    1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
                    1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
                    Not including hers...

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Mysticality View Post
                      That being said about the water temp... it can vary between about 75-80 and over 100 before the gauge will move off 90.
                      The highest I've seen my water temp (via OBD-II) is 102, and the dial still had not moved, so...
                      ......so it is an indicator only

                      MY11 Skoda Octavia vRS ("GT") wagon, TDI, DSG, candy white, downsized (upgraded) to 16" alloys & 225/50 R16s, leather, tint, towbar, 70w HID lightforce strikers



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                      • #26
                        Pretty much.
                        I don't even pay attention to it, anymore... Although I've found that the seat warmers and the heat from the air vents both seem to start working at 60^C. (From a cold start, everything turned on at the same time)


                        EDIT: Took my engine compartment cover off, today... Man, its shiny in there.
                        I'll leave it off for a week and see if there are any differences.
                        Slight difference in noise, noticed when revving in the garage, after closing the bonnet.
                        2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
                        1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
                        1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
                        Not including hers...

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Mysticality View Post
                          Coming right up!!
                          Thanks buddy!

                          i cant believe it, I was going to wash the car so I lifted the bonnet and there it was! Just havent really paid attention in the past I guess
                          2015 MY16 Brilliant Silver Octavia vRS Wagon TDI DSG with Tech Pack, 19" black pack, pano roof and auto tailgate

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by DunlopRS View Post
                            ......so it is an indicator only
                            With all the wizzydoo stuff on our clever cars, and all the stuff we can do via VCDS, it's probably worth mentioning that the thermostats and temp sensors use the same technology that's been around for decades. Thermostats have a predetermined opening temp that's controlled by a wax pellet inside the thermostat. As the water in the cooling system heats up the wax melts and allows the thermostat to open and allows the hotter water in the block and head to circulate forcing the cooler water in the radiator into the block, and on it goes. The heating system doesn't get any heated water going through it until the thermostat starts to open. All this controlled by the heat getting supplied to a little lump of wax that has a flow of water of constantly varying temp through its housing. The coolant temperature sensor (CTS) is a little more sophisticated. It's a thermistor (a resistor that varies the value of its voltage output as temperature to it changes). To say that the temp gauge is only an indicator is in my view fair comment.

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                            • #29
                              Not sure if this is relevant re: temp gauge accuracy & possible mod
                              carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
                              I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

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                              • #30
                                @BS- I took a trip down Macquarie Pass one morning, coolant temp was 90^C at the top, and was about 60^C at the bottom. Temp gauge was at 90 the entire time. :/
                                Had to rev it out of the corners just to keep the interior heat up!!... Shivering just thinking about that day.
                                2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
                                1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
                                1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
                                Not including hers...

                                Comment

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