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Oh, and your insurance companies going to love that, ( 18x 8" rims ).
What would be the issue? only half an inch wider than stock & same diameter. Plenty of vehicles out there with +2" diameter & +1" or greater in width that have the full blessing of of their insurance company & no extra on their premium.
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
I bet that most inspectors aren't that eagle-eyed or knowledgeable. I also bet that it'd have to be a major accident (causing serious injury or death) before they start to comb every single detail. At the end of the day, it's probably worth the risk, as there are plenty of vehicles out there whose wheel and tyre combinations are waaay more idiotic than Ocy's.
But if they somehow find out and decide to use it against you, then insurance claim = null and void (pretty low if they do that IMO).
Everyone seems to get excited about <35% tint on their windows. I think tyres are a bit more important than dark windows.
Many moons ago I was asked to give a report on the tyres on a Celica for MLC insurance. They were trying to decide if the woman had been negligent in maintaining the car (there were other issues such as worn brakes). It was odder than normal as the car was several days past policy expiry and she claimed she had posted in the renewal paperwork & cheque several days before the policy had expired.
Many people used to do dodgies on insurance back then, so I assume they'd be looking a bit closer these days.
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
What would be the issue? only half an inch wider than stock & same diameter. Plenty of vehicles out there with +2" diameter & +1" or greater in width that have the full blessing of of their insurance company & no extra on their premium.
I just checked the PDS for the RACV. Obviously every insurance company has their own PDS so people should check their policy but all the RACV document says is;
If you do not tell us the following we may refuse or reduce a claim, or cancel your Policy:
* you change the address where your vehicle is normally kept
* you change the way you use your vehicle
* you use your vehicle for a driver education course
* you hire out your vehicle
* your vehicle is not in a condition that meets registration requirements in your State or Territory
* your vehicle is not in good order and repair, free from rust, mechanical, hail or unrepaired damage, or any other damage
that would make it unsafe
* you use your vehicle for events relating to a motor vehicle club, bash or charity event
so I guess as long a 18x8" rims are legal for the vehicle there would be no insurance issue for the RACV at least. I'd still ring them and let them know and have the policy noted anyway just to make sure.
Brad, Just the fact that the after market wheels are going to draw more attention to the fact that you have the 235 tyres rather than the 225s. As long as the tyres had tread they probably would nt be worried about the extra 10mm. I replaced the 205/65 s on my Transporter with 215/60 s and GIO didn t care as long as they were load rated.
I have about 27,000 kms on my 2008 RS wagon and it looks like the tyres (Continental SportContact 2) might need replacing in a few months. And I want to stick with the original equipment size and type (225/40-18 92Y). I don’t want to risk fitting 235 tyres even if they are a more common size and therefore, less expensive.
Basically, I require a tyre that is very cheap, has excellent grip in the wet and dry, is quiet and will last for at least 100,000 kms.
Anyway, I drove over a nail yesterday so I took that tyre into Goodyear this morning to be repaired. While I was there, I got some prices for replacement tyres. So the guy said that replacement Continentals would be about $550 each (?!?!). But he said that Continentals are made for the German autobahn and don’t really hold up well on Australian roads.
So instead, he said that Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetricals would be an improvement for $470 each. Goodyear is currently having a sale (get 4/pay for 3) so I figure that 4 would be $1410 (+ fitting?). But the sale ends on 21 April and the fine print seems to suggest that the tyres need to be fitted at the time of purchase. That is, I wouldn’t be able to buy 4 now and get them fitted (by someone else, potentially) down the track. Now the Continentals probably have a little life left in them yet so I don’t really want to replace them right now.
He also said Federal brand tyres provide good performance for the money. He said that the 595EVO (more of a performance tyre) would be $260 each or the FD2 (more of touring tyre) would be $250 each. The load rating for the 595EVO is 92Y and this matches the Continentals. But the load rating for the FD2 seems to be 92W so could I run into problems (RTA, insurance, etc) if I fitted W speed rating tyres onto my RS which came with Y speed rating tyres?
Has anyone had any experience with Federal tyres? Any other suggestions?
As far as treadwear (UTQG), the Continentals and Goodyears are both 240. I found some info on the internet that suggested that the Federal FD2 is 420. I couldn’t find anything on the Federal 595 EVO but I assume that it’s softer.
Now the Tirerack question...
Since the Australian dollar is so strong, I’m also thinking about ordering from Tirerack. On their blog, it seems like shipping costs are in the US$300-500 range. But even with that, I’d probably still save money based upon how much dealers here charge. I was even thinking about ordering the tyres, having them sent to my parents’ house in California and then picking them up the next time we visit. But with a family of 4 travelling from California to Canberra, I think that US$300-500 is a fair price to pay to avoid having to manage 4 huge boxes (in addition to all the other luggage) even though bringing them back over on Qantas would probably be free.
Anyway, a set of 4 Continental SportContact 3’s would be US$904 from Tirerack. If we assume A$1 = US$1, I’d be doing pretty well if Continental SportContact 2’s are A$550 each here. But I’m not confident about the treadwear on Continentals now. Maybe the 3’s are better than the 2’s but who knows.
I have about 27,000 kms on my 2008 RS wagon and it looks like the tyres (Continental SportContact 2) might need replacing in a few months. And I want to stick with the original equipment size and type (225/40-18 92Y). I don’t want to risk fitting 235 tyres even if they are a more common size and therefore, less expensive.
Basically, I require a tyre that is very cheap, has excellent grip in the wet and dry, is quiet and will last for at least 100,000 kms.
Anyway, I drove over a nail yesterday so I took that tyre into Goodyear this morning to be repaired. While I was there, I got some prices for replacement tyres. So the guy said that replacement Continentals would be about $550 each (?!?!). But he said that Continentals are made for the German autobahn and don’t really hold up well on Australian roads.
So instead, he said that Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetricals would be an improvement for $470 each. Goodyear is currently having a sale (get 4/pay for 3) so I figure that 4 would be $1410 (+ fitting?). But the sale ends on 21 April and the fine print seems to suggest that the tyres need to be fitted at the time of purchase. That is, I wouldn’t be able to buy 4 now and get them fitted (by someone else, potentially) down the track. Now the Continentals probably have a little life left in them yet so I don’t really want to replace them right now.
Continental tyres aimed at the European market tend to sacrifice wear for wet performance characteristics.
He also said Federal brand tyres provide good performance for the money. He said that the 595EVO (more of a performance tyre) would be $260 each or the FD2 (more of touring tyre) would be $250 each. The load rating for the 595EVO is 92Y and this matches the Continentals. But the load rating for the FD2 seems to be 92W so could I run into problems (RTA, insurance, etc) if I fitted W speed rating tyres onto my RS which came with Y speed rating tyres?
Has anyone had any experience with Federal tyres? Any other suggestions?
As far as treadwear (UTQG), the Continentals and Goodyears are both 240. I found some info on the internet that suggested that the Federal FD2 is 420. I couldn’t find anything on the Federal 595 EVO but I assume that it’s softer.
In NSW you may fit a tyre with a lower speed index than the one indicated on the placard, but you need to affix a sticker on the windscreen stating this (see previous post).
The 595EVO has a treadwear rating of 240. Hence the FD2 will last longer but at the expense of performance.
Since the Australian dollar is so strong, I’m also thinking about ordering from Tirerack. On their blog, it seems like shipping costs are in the US$300-500 range. But even with that, I’d probably still save money based upon how much dealers here charge. I was even thinking about ordering the tyres, having them sent to my parents’ house in California and then picking them up the next time we visit. But with a family of 4 travelling from California to Canberra, I think that US$300-500 is a fair price to pay to avoid having to manage 4 huge boxes (in addition to all the other luggage) even though bringing them back over on Qantas would probably be free.
Anyway, a set of 4 Continental SportContact 3’s would be US$904 from Tirerack. If we assume A$1 = US$1, I’d be doing pretty well if Continental SportContact 2’s are A$550 each here. But I’m not confident about the treadwear on Continentals now. Maybe the 3’s are better than the 2’s but who knows.
The SportContact 2 and 3 both have a treadwear rating of 280 (not 240), so I would expect them to wear at the same rate.
As for alternatives, you won't be disappointed with any of the following tyres, but having that said...
Continental ExtremeContact DW
Very good value (if bought overseas), good dry/wet performance, good comfort and wear characteristics.
Continental SportContact 5
Newly released, but probably good value (if bought overseas), dry/wet performance approaches that of the Michelin PSS/Goodyear F1A, but at the expense of wear.
Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric
Good value (if bought overseas), still excellent in wet performance, not that great in the dry compared to the Michelin PSS, decent comfort.
Michelin Pilot Super Sport
Good value (if bought overseas), best road tyre for dry performance (next best are track tyres), and claims to have good wear (developed from endurance racing principles).
the tyre load rating is the most important bit in deciding which one to go with.
speed rating is no biggie, unless u plan on doing 'autobahn' speeds.
tyre size, well if u've got the rim for it, go for it. with common sense ofcourse.
but load rating should never be sacrificed. cheapers tyres more than likely we'll not meet the min load rating required by the octavia.
u don't want to b comprimising on safety (incl. tyre blow-outs).
when the time comes to change my tyres, i'll have a go with the 235s
MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS
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speed rating is no biggie, unless u plan on doing 'autobahn' speeds.
Speed rating is extremely important because you are not allowed to have tyres with a speed rating slower than what the manufacturers ID plate specifies afaik.
I have 595s on the back. I have not noticed any difference (wet/dry/noise etc) from the Dunlop SP Sport Maxx that came on the car.
This is not to say that there isn't a difference, it just that if there was a difference it is not pronounced, and the light duty driving we do has not pointed out any deficiencies.
As for longevity, I don't do enough k's to sensibly comment.
Speed rating is extremely important because you are not allowed to have tyres with a speed rating slower than what the manufacturers ID plate specifies afaik.
i do understand the importance of speed rating, and meeting the manufacturer's req. but wat i'm trying to highlight is that the load rating of a tyre needs to b given a greater emphasis when it comes to selecting tyres. Unfortunately with the huge number of cheaper tyres available on the market (online or at the local tyre dealer), this is hardly given any attention, unless the owner or tyre installer is vigilant about this.
going from speed rating of Y (300km/h) to W (270km/h), or even Z (240km/h), is less of an issue than going to a tyre with a load rating of say, 86 (max 530per axle), when the min load rating is 91 (615kg per axle), for the RS as an example!!
the rs has a front axle load of 1100kg (or 550kg per axle) and a min speed rating of V (240km/h)
the chances of u having a tyre blowout, overstressed tyre with a tyre not meeting the min load ratings is far higher, extremely dangerous risk.
the chance of u hitting 300Km/h (Y-rating), let alone 270km/h (W-rating) is less likely. actually more unlikely considering the top-speed on an RS is 240km/h (irrc).
I agree that the speed specs are basically stupid in terms of real world driving but my point was that I believe you should meet all the specs not just the ones that suit you. If you buy a vehicle with certain tyres on it you should replace those tyres with new ones that are equal or better. To be crying poor 30,000km after the purchase of a vehicle probably means you didn't do all the homework that you should have.
I'm all for saving a few dollars but not at the expense of safety in any form.
Passenger tyres are constructed to a pre-defined load index, of which there are two types - standard load and extra load.
For 225/40 R18 tyres it's 88 and 92 respectively, and for 235/40 R18 it's 91 and 95 respectively.
It is at the discretion of the tyre manufacturer on which load index a tyre is to be made available as, so the absence of a particular load index in a tyre model's range is not an indicator of poor quality or otherwise.
cheaper tyres more than likely will not meet the min load rating required by the octavia.
u don't want to b compromising on safety (incl. tyre blow-outs).
Any tyre made to a low standard can compromise safety, regardless of load index or speed symbol.
Speed rating is extremely important because you are not allowed to have tyres with a speed rating slower than what the manufacturers ID plate specifies afaik.
Yes, speed index is important, but in terms of local regulations, what is allowed or disallowed regarding minimum requirements differ from state to state. For example, in NSW you may fit a tyre with a lower speed index than the one indicated on the placard, but you need to affix a sticker on the windscreen stating this.
going from speed rating of Y (300km/h) to W (270km/h), or even Z (240km/h), is less of an issue than going to a tyre with a load rating of say, 86 (max 530per axle), when the min load rating is 91 (615kg per axle), for the RS as an example!!
I wouldn't drop below more than one speed symbol. And ZR denotes "in excess of 240 km/h".
the rs has a front axle load of 1100kg (or 550kg per axle) and a min speed rating of V (240km/h)
the chances of u having a tyre blowout, overstressed tyre with a tyre not meeting the min load ratings is far higher, extremely dangerous risk.
the chance of u hitting 300Km/h (Y-rating), let alone 270km/h (W-rating) is less likely. actually more unlikely considering the top-speed on an RS is 240km/h (irrc).
Fitting a tyre with an underspecified speed symbol is also unwise, because a tyre's speed capability is a reflection of its construction.
To gain EC type approval, and hence compliance, the tyres for the vehicle must be selected so that their maximum permitted speed is greater than the maximum speed that the vehicle can attain, which is calculated using the following formula:
Maximum speed = vehicle's top speed x 1.05
For example, a 2011 Octavia vRS DSG has a top speed of 240 km/h. Multipling that by 1.05 = 252 km/h. Hence the vRS needs W-rated tyres (270 km/h) as a minimum, not V-rated tyres (240 km/h).
I agree that the speed specs are basically stupid in terms of real world driving but my point was that I believe you should meet all the specs not just the ones that suit you.
Since the Australian dollar is so strong, I’m also thinking about ordering from Tirerack. On their blog, it seems like shipping costs are in the US$300-500 range. But even with that, I’d probably still save money based upon how much dealers here charge. I was even thinking about ordering the tyres, having them sent to my parents’ house in California and then picking them up the next time we visit. But with a family of 4 travelling from California to Canberra, I think that US$300-500 is a fair price to pay to avoid having to manage 4 huge boxes (in addition to all the other luggage) even though bringing them back over on Qantas would probably be free.
Anyway, a set of 4 Continental SportContact 3’s would be US$904 from Tirerack. If we assume A$1 = US$1, I’d be doing pretty well if Continental SportContact 2’s are A$550 each here. But I’m not confident about the treadwear on Continentals now. Maybe the 3’s are better than the 2’s but who knows.
I would check with a volume selling Continental dealer(try Jax) as to the correct price for the CSC2/3. When I used to work for Goodyear, our company stores got terrible prices on other brands because we sold so few of them. You need to be turning over about 40 "brand X" per month to get a decent discount.
Tirerack freight will cost you ~USD380 for 4. Strangely, a mate on my forum bought 5 Continental DW last month & 5 tyres were cheaper freight than 4 (go figure). 5x 215/45x17 were ~AUD930 plus $80 fittiing/balancing at his local tyre shop.
The tyres weigh about 11kg each and I doubt very much that QF would allow you free freight unless you are travelling 1st class or you are staff. Also, you have to get them from SYD to CBR somehow. Tirerack dont package them in any way, shape or form beyond how they are supplied from the manufacturer.
If it was me, I'd get either the Michelin PS2 or the Goodyear F1A (both about USD195) and ship them in 2 packages. The only reason i'd avoid the bargain priced Continetal DW is that it isn't sold here yet & it's nice to be able to buy a single replacement tyre if needed.
Your other alternative is Kumhos from the mob in QLD or even try Tempe Tyres & get them shipped to CBR or go for a drive to SYD. Better than paying "Canberra tax".
I realise you gave a wee wink but out of cheap, grippy & great mileage, you are only allowed to pick 2.
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
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