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I SHOULD mention that before starting any of this:
Step 1 - read the *^&$% instructions !!!
Step 2 - read them again.
Step 3 - give yourself plenty of room to do this - you need the passenger door WIDE open and you'll be spending quite a bit of time on your knees and crouching at awkward angles.
Step 4 - book a chiropractor visit for after installation.
Step 5 - think about what you're doing. If you start out by connecting the power-wire to the dashcam, and trying to feed the cigarette-lighter plug down through the trims to the fusebox, you're going to have an awfully difficult time! You need to mount the wires from the BOTTOM ===> UP !
Step 6 - read the instructions again!
Step 7 - deep breaths, get all your tools together, and a damned good torch
Step 8 - choose some good music to play loudly on your phone - this will drown out all the swearing that you will inflict upon your neighbours / family / housemates
Step 9 - be patient, or you'll &^$*-up some really simple things like I did several times
Step 10 - once you're done, find the head engineer at Skoda, responsible for the STUPID glovebox damper fitting arrangement, and smack him square in the face !!! By far, the MOST DIFFICULT part of this job, is re-fitting the glovebox with the damper fitted (which I did NOT take photos of/detail, because of the above-mentioned swearing and annoyed housemates!)
Remove side trim (no idea why this picture is showing sideways)
Don't use a screwdriver, use something plastic to prise the clips out. There's 3 clips along the curved edge of this panel, which I forgot to mark on the photo
Remove the A-pillar trim. You'll need extra vitamins to do this, as the 2 spring clips marked, that hold it in place are stupidly difficult to prise open
Grrrrrr... the culprits
It should look something like this inside. If you have curtain airbags, it's that white thing underneath the green wire sheath. If you have a lower-spec model with no curtain airbags, obviously this will be missing.
Sideways again - no idea why.
Start at the bottom and feed the output power wire for the dashcam UP through the hole at the back of the dash/bottom edge of the A-pillar. Pull through enough wire and do a dummy run of where you will install the wiring, so you have enough slack to play with.
Install the feed wire ABOVE the airbag (if present) by mounting it to the existing wiring, either by cable ties, electrical tape, or winding around as I've done here. IMPERATIVE that you don't be lazy and leave the A-pillar trim in-place, and just poke the feed wire in the gap BELOW the airbag, as this will foul on the bag if it needs to deploy in a crash, and possible cause serious injury.
Install wiring under headlining and around mirror-block to camera position. Models without front camera won't have the massive black block on the windscreen. Mount the camera/wiring in such a position to be least intrusive to your view.
Back downstairs again - time to choose the power sources.
Various models will have different options wired into their fuseboxes (and therefore different fuses installed to mine shown here)
My car is a 2016 model with all options ticked, except black pack which was just wheels and visual differences outside.
I chose the cigarette lighter fuse (#40) for permanent power, as that's what I was running the camera from inside the cabin anyway, using the cig.lighter plug shown in pic above.
The PMP unit I'm installing also required a switched (ignition) power signal to operate.
If you are installing intending to switch the camera on/off with ignition, then this is the circuit you will need to choose.
I chose the Fuse 48 position, which is Blind Spot Monitoring, which was not an option on my earlier model, but I understand is now available on the Facelift models.
You can see that the fusebox is wired with an incoming 12V pin in the top of fuse 48 position, but there's no pin in the output bottom side of the fuse holder. This is ideal to use, as it is a switched ignition power source, and the fuse taps can use an "incomplete" main circuit such as this, to operate the piggyback circuit. All the fuse tap requires is an incoming 12V source wire, which is what this provides.
The extra advantage is that the fuse tap has some room, so it doesn't foul on nearby fuses.
NOTE: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS mount these with the piggyback wire facing down (in VAG cars at least, with incoming 12V on top of fusebox, and output voltage fed from fuse back to the bottom pin on the fusebox.
Test the fuse position(s) you've chosen, to confirm either permanent or switched ignition power.
In this instance, 5A fuses in top (piggyback) circuit of each fusetap is all that's required. The camera is rated for max draw of 1A, but the 5A fuse came with the tap, so that's what I used.
Note first pic is the permanent power fusetap, with the original 20A yellow fuse from the Cig. Lighter on the bottom circuit, and the camera fuse on the top circuit.
The switched power that I'm running on the Fuse 48 position, doesn't need a fuse in the bottom circuit, as that circuit is incomplete in the fusebox. It only needs a 5A fuse in the top piggyback circuit, and the incoming 12V from Fuse 48 runs through that fused circuit to the output wire.
Choose mounting position for the PMP box (only relevant to those users fitting this/similar parking-mode battery-protection device)
I chose underneath the glovebox, as it's easy to wire to the fusebox, and is easily accessible when required while being relatively hidden
Mount the PMP box to the bottom plastic frame behind glovebox. NOTE you have to mount it BACK from the front edge, or the glovebox will foul on it when it hinges down.
CONT'D PART 2
Step 1 - read the *^&$% instructions !!!
Step 2 - read them again.
Step 3 - give yourself plenty of room to do this - you need the passenger door WIDE open and you'll be spending quite a bit of time on your knees and crouching at awkward angles.
Step 4 - book a chiropractor visit for after installation.
Step 5 - think about what you're doing. If you start out by connecting the power-wire to the dashcam, and trying to feed the cigarette-lighter plug down through the trims to the fusebox, you're going to have an awfully difficult time! You need to mount the wires from the BOTTOM ===> UP !
Step 6 - read the instructions again!
Step 7 - deep breaths, get all your tools together, and a damned good torch
Step 8 - choose some good music to play loudly on your phone - this will drown out all the swearing that you will inflict upon your neighbours / family / housemates
Step 9 - be patient, or you'll &^$*-up some really simple things like I did several times
Step 10 - once you're done, find the head engineer at Skoda, responsible for the STUPID glovebox damper fitting arrangement, and smack him square in the face !!! By far, the MOST DIFFICULT part of this job, is re-fitting the glovebox with the damper fitted (which I did NOT take photos of/detail, because of the above-mentioned swearing and annoyed housemates!)
Remove side trim (no idea why this picture is showing sideways)
Don't use a screwdriver, use something plastic to prise the clips out. There's 3 clips along the curved edge of this panel, which I forgot to mark on the photo
Remove the A-pillar trim. You'll need extra vitamins to do this, as the 2 spring clips marked, that hold it in place are stupidly difficult to prise open
Grrrrrr... the culprits
It should look something like this inside. If you have curtain airbags, it's that white thing underneath the green wire sheath. If you have a lower-spec model with no curtain airbags, obviously this will be missing.
Sideways again - no idea why.
Start at the bottom and feed the output power wire for the dashcam UP through the hole at the back of the dash/bottom edge of the A-pillar. Pull through enough wire and do a dummy run of where you will install the wiring, so you have enough slack to play with.
Install the feed wire ABOVE the airbag (if present) by mounting it to the existing wiring, either by cable ties, electrical tape, or winding around as I've done here. IMPERATIVE that you don't be lazy and leave the A-pillar trim in-place, and just poke the feed wire in the gap BELOW the airbag, as this will foul on the bag if it needs to deploy in a crash, and possible cause serious injury.
Install wiring under headlining and around mirror-block to camera position. Models without front camera won't have the massive black block on the windscreen. Mount the camera/wiring in such a position to be least intrusive to your view.
Back downstairs again - time to choose the power sources.
Various models will have different options wired into their fuseboxes (and therefore different fuses installed to mine shown here)
My car is a 2016 model with all options ticked, except black pack which was just wheels and visual differences outside.
I chose the cigarette lighter fuse (#40) for permanent power, as that's what I was running the camera from inside the cabin anyway, using the cig.lighter plug shown in pic above.
The PMP unit I'm installing also required a switched (ignition) power signal to operate.
If you are installing intending to switch the camera on/off with ignition, then this is the circuit you will need to choose.
I chose the Fuse 48 position, which is Blind Spot Monitoring, which was not an option on my earlier model, but I understand is now available on the Facelift models.
You can see that the fusebox is wired with an incoming 12V pin in the top of fuse 48 position, but there's no pin in the output bottom side of the fuse holder. This is ideal to use, as it is a switched ignition power source, and the fuse taps can use an "incomplete" main circuit such as this, to operate the piggyback circuit. All the fuse tap requires is an incoming 12V source wire, which is what this provides.
The extra advantage is that the fuse tap has some room, so it doesn't foul on nearby fuses.
NOTE: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS mount these with the piggyback wire facing down (in VAG cars at least, with incoming 12V on top of fusebox, and output voltage fed from fuse back to the bottom pin on the fusebox.
Test the fuse position(s) you've chosen, to confirm either permanent or switched ignition power.
In this instance, 5A fuses in top (piggyback) circuit of each fusetap is all that's required. The camera is rated for max draw of 1A, but the 5A fuse came with the tap, so that's what I used.
Note first pic is the permanent power fusetap, with the original 20A yellow fuse from the Cig. Lighter on the bottom circuit, and the camera fuse on the top circuit.
The switched power that I'm running on the Fuse 48 position, doesn't need a fuse in the bottom circuit, as that circuit is incomplete in the fusebox. It only needs a 5A fuse in the top piggyback circuit, and the incoming 12V from Fuse 48 runs through that fused circuit to the output wire.
Choose mounting position for the PMP box (only relevant to those users fitting this/similar parking-mode battery-protection device)
I chose underneath the glovebox, as it's easy to wire to the fusebox, and is easily accessible when required while being relatively hidden
Mount the PMP box to the bottom plastic frame behind glovebox. NOTE you have to mount it BACK from the front edge, or the glovebox will foul on it when it hinges down.
CONT'D PART 2
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