Seat Toledo ECU

[kiwi73]

Hi I have a SEAT Toledo. I ve owned for 7 years and used the same mechanic. Over a year ago it started to intermittently have power loss stall when stopped and run just really bad. My usual mechanic has nt been able to locate the problem the last thing they disconnected was the idle control unit but it still does it intermittently. What i would like to know is where can i locate the ECU unit as my neighbor is a mechanic and he thinks this would be a good place to start. And does anyone no where i can source one i want to get the part number so i can be sure to locate the right part. . It is a 96 2.0L Toleldo. Any other ideas to this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Kiwi73

[Martin]

I would swap out the crank TDC sensor first

[h100vw]

I'd scan it for faults, pretty sure they have an OBD socket somewhere.

Gavin

[kiwi73]

thanks guys ill pass this info on, its been a real pain (over a year) of leaving it with the mechanic for a day or 2 at a time and they have never eeen able to source it.

[gldgti]

OP - do you have an Auto or a manual?

Also you have said 2.0L - is it a 16V (engine code ABF) or 8V (engine code 2E)???

The 8V toledo's have diagnostic connectors behind trim panels on the right hand side of the instrument cluster - but its the old 4 pin connector.

I would not be starting with changing your ECU - thats something more like a last resort - I realise you have had the car at your mechanics on and off for a while, so you are probably considering last resorts, but there are a lot of little things on either the 16V or 8V engine to go astray and cause the problems you have described.

Some more information would be good:

> does the car cold start properly?
> does it idle properly when cold?
> when exactly does the fault occur?

my mate has an auto toledo that (before we changed the atf) would sometimes hold the car in 3rd or 4th gear right down to 0km/h - the thing used to clatter and vibrate like a bastard when that happened. change of ATF fixed tt good as new.

Similarly, there were intermittent other issues - a crack in the rotor in the dizzy made it faulty when hot, various vacuum hoses would cause idle problems, etc.

But - the toledo is a great car - well worth the effort to fix IMO!

[Golf Loon]

Got heaps of Toledo parts here. I also would change the ecu last. It's coded with the immobilizer. So hard to change at home. It's in the rain tray, I have one here. Take it to someone that knows about Vws or audis. Jmac from this forum is up on the Gold Coast, or V. A Garage also on the goldie. Talk to Adam, he's a good bloke.

[kiwi73]

Thanks guys!!!
gldgti to answer your questions.
it is the 8V manual.
The problem is intermitant. And yep it does sometimes playup in the cold but in saying that it will do it when its hot too??? The other day is a classic example. I was driving and even when you changed through the gears it was forceably trying to stall if you took it off any gas. It had been doing this for a few days really badly this time. Then out of the blue i was sitting at lights and with my foot on the gas to keep it about 2000rpm then it suddenly jumped to 2-3000rpm and i new it had gone back to normal. Took my foot off the gas and she idled perfectly for the rest of the day. then the next day back to running rough. One point to make. When I bought the car 5-6 years ago. It was like the problem was there but on a minute scale. Every few days you it would have the slightest lag when you gave it gas. Only Just noticale but not bad. Then it would go away. It is like over the years it has now deveploped to a full blown issue but still the same intermitant time frame. The other day it was probably the worst it had been and when i went to start the car the next day it didnt fire my flatmate check the leads and there was no spark. We left for an hour and it started first pop. Damn pain!!! Its only done the not starting once before though, I assume its related. Ill check the 2 mechanics you mentioned Golf Loon
cheers

[tonijov]

I had an intermittent spark problem on my 8v Cordoba that slowly got worse over a number of years. The cause was a failing hall sensor in the distributor. I pulled the distributor apart and replaced just the sensor and the problem was finally fixed. This was the sensor HKZ-101 Hall Effect Device Re-introduced - Jaycar Electronics

[Golf Loon]

Probably just a coil pack. Common as hell on that car.

[aprr32]

Or try an ecu current relay,they cause a lot of problems but are cheap to replace.

[kiwi73]

wicked guys gonna look into these 3 this weekend ill keep you posted

[ozie]

I'd check out ignition module located at firewall just under where ECU is housed, not too expensive ~$50. Also, most Audi/VW have a relay that will power up ECU and this could also be cause.

[kiwi73]

Ok people I had it on the computer and the code 00532 came up and knock sensor. I have also spoken to my mechanic and he said they replaced the Air Flow Meter and the Throttle position Sensor already. In the book the code references

ECM supply voltage
- fuse
- alternator
- battery
- igniton switch
- engine control relay
- wiring

any thoughts? I went over the post you guys wrote and not being too mechanically minded does any of the above match

ignition module - Also, most Audi/VW have a relay that will power up ECU (NEWDUBBER)

ecu current relay (aprr32)

or any of the other things listed in the thread. Thanks!

[Golf Loon]

Relay with 167 printed on the top of it.
Get a new mechanic who understands VWs.