99 Cupra heart transplant

[CUPRA_GTi]

Guys, I dont have many photo's of the motor in and running, but it goes like crazy in the night and early morning, but heatsoaks and knocks in middle of day. The Canberra VW centre did the work and have performed a good job, but there are a few things that I/ another Mech need to take care of. I have a K&N Apollo enclosed filter coming so that the poor 1.8T isnt sucking in any hot air (Which is causing the problems) and im putting a reversed WRX scoop on to get rid of more hot air. at the middle of the night in Canberra (IT IS STILL REAL COLD) the water to air intercooler is almost at ambient temp when i put my hand on it, but middle of day, it is only slightly colder than the turbo outlet pipe. SO... it is knocking when hot. I only hope the enclosed pod filter with a cold air feed will be ample. I will upload all the pictures i possibly can when I get the car on monday



This is the Cupra we are talking about. I have one other pic with just the motor in, but i cant upload them for some reason.

[Water Boy]

Very keen to see more pics!

[hamza]

and im putting a reversed WRX scoop on to get rid of more hot air

Is the scoop to remove the hot air from around the engine? have you thought of maybe doing this



its essentially offsetting the bonnet mounts so there's a gap at the top when fully closed. Keeps more of a stock look.

[CUPRA_GTi]

Waterboy: Pics will come as soon as possible, I do want to show you guys this thing, it looks really good.

hamza: No I havent thought of that though I have seen it before on TA22 Celica's, which came with backward operating bonnets. The scoop will be put on by WRX specialists, and im sure they look forward to getting the angle grinder out to put it on... Backwards OF COURSE... apparantly the WRX scoops move hot air out with much gusto. I just dont want to touch my water to air intercooler and feel it "Hot" and i dont want the knocking in the middle of the day.. with the Apollo K&N Enclosed filter, and a backward facing scoop, I think I will have to win... The Air filter is basically a short ram intake, and isnt even boxed off, or semi enclosed, I think the combo will give me a win.

PICS to come i promise.

[hamza]

Yes the ta22 celicas open the other way around, iv got one

Just though it may appear to be a more "stock" approach to a wrx scoop on the bonnet.

[CUPRA_GTi]

OH NO off topic time... not another TA22 lover... they are beaut cars with perfect stance for track work, here is a couple of pics of my old TA22 with a 3T-GTE twin spark motor in it... god it was a good car




Now back onto subject.... The SEAT was dynotuned with an Adaptronic computer, and on 15psi it made 151kw at wheels...1st Gear is fun... Thank god i kept the Cupra gearbox... it is stronger is it not?
I cant wait to get this enclosed filter. Bosch 044 water pump for the intercooler system. And for someone to plumb in a resevoir for the
W/A-I/C, because at the moment it doesnt have one. What else would anyone suggest to help keep temps down? I thought about rapping the W/A-I/C in that exhaust wrap, but I don't know if thats a good idea... some guidance?

[DognamedElvis]

W/A-I/C, because at the moment it doesnt have one. What else would anyone suggest to help keep temps down? I thought about rapping the W/A-I/C in that exhaust wrap, but I don't know if thats a good idea... some guidance?

Hi there, I have spent a bunch of time researching and playing about with WAIC set-ups on Subarus and you are definitely on the right track.
You really want to eliminate/reduce heat sink as much as possible...remember, nowhere in your engine bay itself is at ambient temp. Do as much insulating/wrapping/shielding as you can. Get a beanie for your turbo and sleeves for your WAIC to heat exchanger in/out piping. A quality after market heat exchanger itself, appropriately sized, makes the world of difference too, as does a good efficient upgraded water pump.
You can buy 'in line' reservoir kits from PWR that are easy to fit.
Jaycar sell temp sensor kits you can have fitted to your intake system to keep an eye on things from in cabin...the best you are realistically going to achieve is about 12 degrees C above ambient on a consistent basis, so tune your car to suit.
For an out and out track car, you can't beat a FMIC, but in pretty much all other real world situations, a well sorted WAIC system is win.
Good luck with it all...by the way, I'm in Canberra...and have just purchased a Cupra, so I'm keen to catch up in person someday
Pete.

[CUPRA_GTi]

So I melted the motor while in canberra. turns out the water to air I/C was flowing hot water... was fantastic in the cold canberra midnight, but during the day it just detonated off its head. I got it up here to Rockhampton om a freighter, and have found a VW enthusiust to tkae the job on. going to either bore and sleeve the cylinders, or just bore it out. Anyone tell me what mm the stock pistons are? its a BJX. i think its 81.5 so i would like 82mm and get a piston and conrod set off ebay for about $800-900. The head will get a bit of attention, and ancillaries such as water pump, and oil pump will be upgraded. Should I upgrade the fuel pump and injectors? Im getting rid of the W/A I/C in favour of a big front mount - i just want it as simple as possible..its going to end up costing a bit but thats what u get for loving ur car :/

[CUPRA_GTi]

Mech thinks i have fried the motor. buying second hand 1.8t 20v from brookvale spares, and gonna swap all ancillary parts over to it, with a front mount instead of water to air. The reason it failed was that it didnt have a huge storage tank to let the water cool down a bit before going through the heat exchange unit.. will the auxillaries from the BJX go onto an AGU?? also, what type of clutch should I buy for this when I need to replace it? The polo has O2A and we have an 02J i think... I have read of people using R32 clutches. thoughts guys.

[h100vw]

Mech thinks i have fried the motor. buying second hand 1.8t 20v from brookvale spares, and gonna swap all ancillary parts over to it, with a front mount instead of water to air. The reason it failed was that it didnt have a huge storage tank to let the water cool down a bit before going through the heat exchange unit.. will the auxillaries from the BJX go onto an AGU?? also, what type of clutch should I buy for this when I need to replace it? The polo has O2A and we have an 02J i think... I have read of people using R32 clutches. thoughts guys.

VR6 cover and plate with your standard flywheel. ECSTuning do a stage 1 kit for just over 300 plus shipping.

If you aren't reusing your BJX head, I might be interested if it's not ruined.

The AGU has large ports and the BJX manifold will be small port.

Can't advise if the ancillaries will go on the AGU.

Gavin

[CUPRA_GTi]

VR6 cover and plate with your standard flywheel. ECSTuning do a stage 1 kit for just over 300 plus shipping.

If you aren't reusing your BJX head, I might be interested if it's not ruined.

The AGU has large ports and the BJX manifold will be small port.

Can't advise if the ancillaries will go on the AGU.

Gavin

So even if I get this AGU as a long motor, i will need to get some porting nd polising done on the manifolds?

[h100vw]

So even if I get this AGU as a long motor, i will need to get some porting nd polising done on the manifolds?

They will bolt on but not match. badger5 in the UK does a phelonic matching gasket and bolts to fit small port manifold to big port head.

The exhaust side is the same.

Gavin

[CUPRA_GTi]

hey mate thanks for the reply, but what is Phelononic mean?

[h100vw]

hey mate thanks for the reply, but what is Phelononic mean?

Phenol formaldehyde resin - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

No google in the ACT then?? It's an insulator amongst other things.

Gavin

[CUPRA_GTi]

lol, no i just didnt think to google it. So basically it will be more condusive to my plans if i get the engine with manifolds included if they do a good price?