barely any acceleration

[midget]

ok guys,

I put but stock airbox etc back into the car

now when i go to accelerate, its as if theres lag on the takeoff, the car takes forever to get to 3k rpm and kind of sits there. I can put my foot down and it will only be a gradual acceleration.

anyone else had these probs? anything i can try out to troubleshoot it?

[DubSteve]

ok guys,

I put but stock airbox etc back into the car

now when i go to accelerate, its as if theres lag on the takeoff, the car takes forever to get to 3k rpm and kind of sits there. I can put my foot down and it will only be a gradual acceleration.

anyone else had these probs? anything i can try out to troubleshoot it?

Damn looks like a big problem. Maybe there could be a blockage when you put it back not sure.

Are you sure that you lined it up right??? Good luck with it.

[luke_how]

maybe the ECU could be on "limp home" mode, it happens when you havnt connected one of your sensors and it relies on another sensor to get information from.

[h100vw]

Airflow meter pointing the right way? or vacuum connection to ECU not connected.
Gavin

[midget]

id assume that its pointing the right way, i put it all back in the same way, The MAF might be broken? any way i can test the theory without having to buy another one straight up?

hmm limp home mode, you mean just the plug may not be connected properly?

[h100vw]

Limp mode is when the ECU senses that it is getting an invalid input or problem and to protect the engine from being damaged it reduces power usually by restricting ignition advance and richening the mixture.

Often disconnecting the offending sensor will cause the ECU to ignore the sensor and revert to another map, usually this will restore some of the performance.

1.8Ts are famous for having failing MAFs, unplugging them makes them run much better.

If you have a timing light, hook it up and rev the engine while monitoring the timing. The timing should be pretty stable at tickover and then disappear out of sight as the revs increase. I would expect the timing to exceed 25 degrees easily above 3000 revs.

I am pretty sure that the KR 16V for example doesn't advance the timing with the vac pipe off. Therefore the engine is stuck with the base timing of 6-8 degrees which is no where near what it needs to make any power.

Gavin

[midget]

thanx heaps for the replies guys, i will have a look tomorrow at it

when the MAF is unplugged it will cut out and wont idle

thinking back on it, i might be another K&N filter victim

[h100vw]

The MAF is obviously working if thats the case. Could be giving a duff output though. Maybe try cleaning the element, isopropol (sp) alcohol is the stuff to use.

In the states they drop the element into a zip lock bag with a goodly amount of IPA and shake.

Allow to dry somewhere warm but without heating it up. Refit and go.

Could still be something else.

Have you looked to see if the timing is changing with engine speed. Hook up a timing light and while monitoring the marks, rev the engine. The marks should move and maybe disappear from sight and then return as the speed drops to idle.

Gavin

[midget]

i think i have an air flapper maf,
do i clean this one the same way?

[midget]

argggh

looks like it may be a trip to the mechanic

[Bug_racer]

Airflow meter pointing the right way?
Gavin

If its a 2E engine thats near impossible

[Bug_racer]

Need a Vag com to check the lambda probe to see what thats doing