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  • Buying a4 1.8t

    Hey guys,
    I'm planning on checking out a 1996 Audi A4 1.8T tomorrow and would like any pointers to look out for or any common problems I should know about.
    It's been sitting there since April 2013 and hasn't been started for the past few months, I know that dirty oil ruins the turbo if it is run, so should I get it started? I've been told by rayray that the air con compressor is an issue on this vehicle.

    So far what I know is that the lining from the sunroof isn't very intact and parts of the sunroof cover bit I can see browning/brown stuff/surface rust? Scratches here and there but it has the leather interior so?

    If anything please let me know as I'm eager to purchase this vehicle and make it my daily and eventually modding it as I do with every car I own......

    Thanks guys,
    Paul

  • #2
    Originally posted by addictions View Post
    Hey guys,
    I'm planning on checking out a 1996 Audi A4 1.8T tomorrow and would like any pointers to look out for or any common problems I should know about.
    It's been sitting there since April 2013 and hasn't been started for the past few months, I know that dirty oil ruins the turbo if it is run, so should I get it started? I've been told by rayray that the air con compressor is an issue on this vehicle.

    So far what I know is that the lining from the sunroof isn't very intact and parts of the sunroof cover bit I can see browning/brown stuff/surface rust? Scratches here and there but it has the leather interior so?

    If anything please let me know as I'm eager to purchase this vehicle and make it my daily and eventually modding it as I do with every car I own......

    Thanks guys,
    Paul
    Don't be buying it with tuning in mind the ECU is a chip solder deal and practically no one bothers with them.

    Gavin
    optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

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    • #3
      What ecu does it have gav, the m3.8.2?

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      • #4
        It's older than that AFAIK. If there's no letter after the part number that's the worst sign. Nefmoto has people claiming to be able to tune them. Sockets and soldering at best.

        I saw other claims of converting to an AGU ECU, not convinced there either....

        Gavin
        optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

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        • #5
          No advice on checking the vehicle?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by addictions View Post
            No advice on checking the vehicle?
            If I were you, I would maybe look at the B6 instead. The 1.8T is bulletproof, and easy to mod. Depends on budget of course. Biggest thing as always really is timing belt and cam chain changes.
            2001 - A4 B6 1.8T Sedan Manual - (sold @ 254,000km)
            2008 - A3 8P 1.9tdi Sportback Manual - (sold 90,000kms)

            2013 - Octavia RS wagon - 1z - Race Blue - TDI - 6M - Leather - MDI - Whispbar S44W - LED interior kit - RVC forward?/retrofit - Mk3 gear shifter
            2021 - Q3 S-Line wagon - F3 - Daytona Grey - Westfalia towbar - no other options available.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by addictions View Post
              No advice on checking the vehicle?
              There are thousands of things that could/should be checked, but my advice (have owned one in the past):

              - Front end suspension creaks = front end tie rods and arms will need to be replaced (would not this one down either way as a maintenance item which will need to be performed sooner or later).
              - Clutch will need to be replaced if it hasn't been already.
              - Check for obvious timing belt replacements through interval requirements (via service books).
              - Check fuel system/evaporation/vacuum lines/check-valves and all air hoses in engine bay (brittle plastic as is common with these motors)
              - Check the coolant - should be pink/red.
              - Gearbox play should be non-existent. Slide gear lever in/out of gears without fuss, and should still retain the 'click' into slots. If not, linkages are on the way out (too much play in the ends).
              - Oil colour and any obvious inclusions (metal shavings, etc).

              These would be the start. There's too much to list for a 17+ year old car. Just pay particular attention to fluids and lubricants, and listen to the motor operation.
              SPA Top Mount | GT3076R | 2200cc | Vi-PEC Standalone | Gizzmo EBC | BUILT Bottom End | BUILT Head | Bosch 040 & BIG Plumbing | Plenty of Bolt-Ons | Plenty of CUSTOM work | Plenty of PAIN

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              • #8
                I would also check condition of turbo coolant pipe. Hard to see but when she goes it causes a lot of pain. Caused an engine rebuild on mine many years ago.



                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
                MK7 TSI Highline

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the so far advice guys, how would I know what model it is? b6? B5? Lol thanks a loads

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by addictions View Post
                    Thanks for the so far advice guys, how would I know what model it is? b6? B5? Lol thanks a loads
                    B6 started mid 2001 onwards. By looking, classic 'lip' on the boot of the B5. 1996 will be a B5. Obviously this comes down to budget.
                    2001 - A4 B6 1.8T Sedan Manual - (sold @ 254,000km)
                    2008 - A3 8P 1.9tdi Sportback Manual - (sold 90,000kms)

                    2013 - Octavia RS wagon - 1z - Race Blue - TDI - 6M - Leather - MDI - Whispbar S44W - LED interior kit - RVC forward?/retrofit - Mk3 gear shifter
                    2021 - Q3 S-Line wagon - F3 - Daytona Grey - Westfalia towbar - no other options available.

                    Comment

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