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Hi all,
I'm letting my Gen1 Haldex Competition controller go. It's been fitted to my car (Bora V6 4Motion) for ~10,000km, and as much as I love it (it's as close as you can get to permanent AWD on these cars), I need to reduce the capitalisation on my Bora.
The competition controller is a step above the blue controller, which was a step above the stock controller. If you've driven a Subaru AWD vehicle, the car's much more like that - the rear wheels are connected more often, and the split between front and rear wheels is more neutral than standard (standard is very FWD biased).
It's the top of the line controller. The controllers are "stacked" in the product line as follows:
Standard controller - sends power to the rear when it detects slip at the front. Cuts power to the rear as soon as you release the throttle or touch the brakes.
Performance (blue) controller - sends more power to the rear wheels and does it sooner than the standard controller, and disconnects . Doesn't disconnect the rear wheels when you release the throttle, but does disconnect the rears when you touch the brakes.
Competition (orange) controller (the one I'm selling) - has the same power transfer characteristics as the Performance controller under accelleration. As per the performance controller, it doesn't disconnect the rear wheels once you lift the throttle, but (and here's the difference) nor does it cut power to the rears under braking. This makes the car more stable under brakes, which is where it's most like a permanent AWD system.
There are some drawbacks, and they're well published - it makes low speed (car park speeds or really tight hairpin speeds) handling a bit funny, particularly when reversing, the car tends to "crab" a bit. This behaviour is improved by turning the ESC off during low speed stuff (or if you're after a spirited drive - it should be noted that ESC is never really off on these cars, the threshold for intervention is just raised). As long as you're aware of it, it's not an issue, just a behaviour you learn to adjust for. It's certainly very streetable, but the biggest benefit would come if you wanted to run in motorsport events.
Given it's practically new (only used on public roads, and they don't wear out with time anyway), looking for $1200 for it - which is a LOT cheaper than you'd get as new one locally. Pickup in North Parramatta, can post at buyer's expense. Would consider swap for blue controller for $600.
I'm letting my Gen1 Haldex Competition controller go. It's been fitted to my car (Bora V6 4Motion) for ~10,000km, and as much as I love it (it's as close as you can get to permanent AWD on these cars), I need to reduce the capitalisation on my Bora.
The competition controller is a step above the blue controller, which was a step above the stock controller. If you've driven a Subaru AWD vehicle, the car's much more like that - the rear wheels are connected more often, and the split between front and rear wheels is more neutral than standard (standard is very FWD biased).
It's the top of the line controller. The controllers are "stacked" in the product line as follows:
Standard controller - sends power to the rear when it detects slip at the front. Cuts power to the rear as soon as you release the throttle or touch the brakes.
Performance (blue) controller - sends more power to the rear wheels and does it sooner than the standard controller, and disconnects . Doesn't disconnect the rear wheels when you release the throttle, but does disconnect the rears when you touch the brakes.
Competition (orange) controller (the one I'm selling) - has the same power transfer characteristics as the Performance controller under accelleration. As per the performance controller, it doesn't disconnect the rear wheels once you lift the throttle, but (and here's the difference) nor does it cut power to the rears under braking. This makes the car more stable under brakes, which is where it's most like a permanent AWD system.
There are some drawbacks, and they're well published - it makes low speed (car park speeds or really tight hairpin speeds) handling a bit funny, particularly when reversing, the car tends to "crab" a bit. This behaviour is improved by turning the ESC off during low speed stuff (or if you're after a spirited drive - it should be noted that ESC is never really off on these cars, the threshold for intervention is just raised). As long as you're aware of it, it's not an issue, just a behaviour you learn to adjust for. It's certainly very streetable, but the biggest benefit would come if you wanted to run in motorsport events.
Given it's practically new (only used on public roads, and they don't wear out with time anyway), looking for $1200 for it - which is a LOT cheaper than you'd get as new one locally. Pickup in North Parramatta, can post at buyer's expense. Would consider swap for blue controller for $600.
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